Jordi Panisello, Azul, Mandarin Orange Hotel, Miami
“I ask questions about technique. How do you make crème anglaise? What about pastry cream? Do you know how to temper chocolate? People who have been in school for one or two years may not have had a lot of practical experience, but they should have learned the basic techniques by heart.”

Sue McCown, Earth & Ocean, W Hotel, Seattle
“I’m looking for a person with energy and passion. I just spent the last month interviewing candidates, and believe it or not, only a couple of the people I talked to showed any sense of excitement about the job. The rest just had this glazed look in their eyes! Also, most of the people came dressed in jeans and T-shirts, not realizing that the way you present yourself says a lot about who you are. In terms of skills, you absolutely must have basic cake experience to succeed in the pastry industry. If you don’t, take the initiative to work for free in a bakery or take a couple of cake classes.”

Mindy Segal, mk, Chicago
“I look for someone who understands that they have a long road ahead of them and that the first steps to learning are to think and listen. Entry-level people don’t really understand how to think about recipes—they kind of just go through the motions. But once you’ve achieved that, you’re on the way to becoming a pastry chef, not just someone’s assistant.

Jacqueline Zion, Jefferson, New York City
“Schooling is optional, but applicants must have some kind of relevant experience. I look for cleanliness, communication skills, and a sense of teamwork. They should know basic techniques (for example, tempering chocolate and working with doughs) and be willing to learn new skills.”

Paige Retus, Blu, Boston
“The most important qualities are interest, excitement, and intensity. Culinary school can be useful in that it shows dedication and allows us to communicate with a common language, but it’s just the icing on the cake. With career changers, I focus on people who used some of the same skills that come in handy in the kitchen—patience and the ability to keep a few balls in the air at the same time.”

Nerissa Burr, Bluehour, Portland, OR
“Basic techniques are key although they can be easily learned. What’s more important to me is a strong level of interest and motivation. I want to hire someone who is patient—not a perfectionist necessarily—but someone with good attention to detail. Good desserts take time.”

Victoria Burghi, Morrells Restaurant, New York City
“I want someone who is willing to listen and follow my directions without any preconceived notions. Some culinary school graduates learn a certain skill in school and are resistant to learning the chef’s method. Chefs do have different techniques, and, in a real restaurant, there are times when you need to be able to use shortcuts or find easier ways of doing things. I expect a person to be open and flexible.”

Brad High and Kathleen Kenny, Gateaux, Denver
“Reliability and common sense are very important. We expect people to be assertive and work independently, so we don’t have to look over our assistants’ shoulders as they decorate cakes. Also, we want to work with people who have a good sense of humor and know how to have fun.”

Ann Amernick, Palena, Washington, D.C.
“I look for someone who’s willing to learn and persevere. I’ve found that most people aspire to become food stars. They’re not interested in learning but showing you what they already know. My goal is to hire someone who wants to learn from the bottom up, not just pastillage and pulled sugar. That’s the stuff I want to spend my time doing!”