photo courtesy of Whole Foods Market

Pastry chefs and bakers have long ridden the roller coaster of consumer demand with free-, low-, and “lite” baked goods all enjoying their fleeting 15 minutes of fame. Thankfully, some had less time in the spotlight, for which taste buds all over the nation rejoiced. Although it’s often fad diets that drive customers to look for fat-free, sugar-free, low-carb (and-so-on) items on bakery and dessert menus, dietary restrictions based on allergies or other medical conditions are here to stay.

In bagels and baguettes, pancakes and pie dough, and cakes and cookies, customers are increasingly asking for products made without wheat flour, the main structure provider and backbone of baking. The challenge facing the baking industry is to prepare products using wheat flour alternatives that offer the same flavor, mouthfeel, and chew. Until recently, wheat-free baked goods have suffered from downright miserable texture, and gluten-intolerant individuals had no choice but to choke down dense and crumbly facsimiles of their favorite treats. More and more people are changing their diets to give up bread and desserts as adults, so they know what they’re missing.

The rise of the gluten-free diet stems from greater awareness of allergies and the large number of people being diagnosed with

sorghum plants ready for harvesting

celiac disease, a digestive disorder in which gluten consumption prevents the absorption of nutrients and causes damage to the lining of the small intestine. In 2004, the National Institute of Health (NIH) estimated that about 1 in 100 Americans, or approximately 3 million people nationwide, suffer from celiac disease, making it the most common hereditary autoimmune disorder. But nowadays, it’s not only wheat-allergy and celiac disease sufferers who have chosen to exclude wheat from their diets. The gluten-free diet has been shown to benefit autistic children and those who suffer from autoimmune diseases, like rheumatoid arthritis, multiple sclerosis, and lupus.

What does all this mean for today’s bakers and pastry chefs?

a ready available brand of soy flour

Because there is a large consumer base for gluten-free goods made up of individuals facing limited choices, the market continues to expand in leaps and bounds. Sales increased from $210 million in 2001 to $700 million in 2006, following compound annual growth of 27%. Market research experts project this high rate of growth to continue through 2010 as more people are diagnosed as gluten-intolerant, allergic to wheat, or having celiac disease.

In response to consumer demand, gluten-free baking has improved significantly over the past two decades. Today, there are more alternative flours on the market—such as sorghum, amaranth, sweet rice, soy, and potato—that provide improved taste and texture. Carol Fenster, a leading expert on the

white bread made from Expandex

gluten-free lifestyle and the author of several baking cookbooks (read more at www.savorypalate.com), recommends experimenting with a combination of flours to achieve desired results since each of the different flours lends unique qualities to the finished product. Carol has come to depend on one main blend that she mixes up ahead of time to facilitate baking. Edible gums, like xanthan gum and guar gum, replace some of the elasticity lost with the exclusion of gluten. In particular, the recent introduction of Expandex has revolutionized the world of gluten-free baking for bakers and pastry chefs, as well as their customers. When used in place of a portion of the alternative flour blend, this modified tapioca starch yields baked goods with a lighter and softer interior texture, crisper crust, and a longer shelf life. Thanks to advances in gluten-free baking, individuals who once suffered through mediocre at best gluten-free treats can now enjoy breads and desserts with taste and texture on par with traditional wheat-based items.

GLUTEN-FREE BAKING TIPS

Make-Your-Own Flour Blend
Combine a mix of
* 30-40% high protein, mild flavored flour to give structure
* 30-40% starch-based flour, like a potato starch or cornstarch,
to lighten and soften crumb
* 30-40% tapioca flour for enhanced mouthfeel, crispy crust, and
better browning
* 10-15% optional flours for fiber, nutrition, and taste

Baking Tips and Guidelines
Yeast Breads
* Gluten-free bread dough requires more hydration and therefore
has a texture closer to a batter than a dough.
* Mix dough using the paddle attachment instead of the dough
hook. Beat until thick. Since there is no gluten to develop, no
kneading is required.
* Allow the dough to rise only once.
* Smaller loaves bake better than larger ones. Gray (not black)
nonstick pans work best.
* Start the baking process in a cold oven. The exterior of the loaf
will dry as the oven heats and will form a crisp crust.
* The most accurate test to determine doneness is to remove the
loaf from the pan and tap the bottom. It should sound hollow.
* Remove baked loaves immediately from pans to prevent
sogginess. Cool on racks.

Cakes and Quick Breads
* Stabilized egg foams create light and airy structure in
gluten-free cakes. Batters also benefit from the moisture of
vegetable oil and syrups.
* Smaller pans facilitate thorough baking. Bundt pans also work
well.
* For layer cakes, bake multiple thin layers instead of splitting
thicker layers.
* The touch test provides the most accurate test for doneness. A
cake tester often comes out clean even when the interior is not
fully baked.

Piecrusts
* Sweet rice flour lends pliability to crusts.
* Start pies on the lowest oven rack and then move them up to
the middle rack to finish baking.
* Adjust recipes to avoid long baking times.

Doughnuts
* Cake doughnuts work well, but yeast doughnuts have poor
texture.

Gluten-Free Recipes  by Carol Fenster
Reprinted with permission from Gluten-Free 101
Basic Sorghum Flour Blend:
1 part sorghum flour
1 part potato starch or cornstarch
2/3 part tapioca flour

Chocolate Chip Cookies
makes 24 cookies
1 1/2 cups basic sorghum flour blend
1 teaspoon xanthan gum
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup cold unsalted butter, margarine, or shortening
3/4 cup light brown sugar, packed
1/3 cup sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 extra large egg
1 cup gluten-free chocolate chips
1/4 cup chopped walnuts
1. Preheat oven to 350ºF. Generously grease 13-by- 9-inch baking sheet or line with parchment paper. Mix together flour blend, xanthan gum, baking soda, and salt. Set aside. 2. In large mixing bowl, beat butter until smooth. Add sugars, vanilla, and egg and blend thoroughly. Beat in flour mixture on low speed, mixing thoroughly. Remove dough from bowl, wrap tightly, and chill for 1 hour. Drop by tablespoonfuls (or ice cream scoops) on baking sheet. 3. Bake 10 to 12 minutes in center rack of oven or until browned. Cool 2 to 3 minutes before removing from cookie sheet.

Basic Cake
serves 12
1/2 cup unsalted butter or margarine
1 1/4 cups sugar
2 large eggs
1 tablespoon lemon zest
2 cups basic sorghum flour blend
1 1/2 teaspoons xanthan gum
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/4 cups buttermilk or 1 tablespoon vinegar plus whole milk (cow, rice, or soy) to equal 1 1/4 cups
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1. Bring all ingredients to room temperature. Preheat oven to 325ºF. Generously grease 10-cup nonstick Bundt pan. 2. Using an electric mixer and large mixer bowl, cream together butter and sugar for 2 minutes on medium speed. Mix in eggs on low speed until blended; then add grated lemon peel. (Mixture may curdle; that’s ok.) 3. In medium bowl, sift together flour, xanthan gum, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Add vanilla to buttermilk. On low speed, beat dry ingredients into butter mixture, alternating with buttermilk, beginning and ending with dry ingredients. Mix just until combined. Spoon batter into prepared pan. 4. Bake 50 to 55 minutes or until top is golden brown and tester inserted into center comes out clean. Cool cake in pan for 5 minutes. Remove from pan and cool thoroughly on rack.

French Bread
makes 2 loaves each yielding 20 one-inch thick slices
Put this bread into a COLD oven for a crisp crust and nice texture. If this doesn’t work in your oven, let the bread rise until level with top of pan; then bake in preheated 425ºF oven 25 to 30 minutes. Use a pan specially designed for French bread. The modified tapioca starch (Expandex) will make the bread rise higher, have a better texture, and a longer shelf life.
2 tablespoons active dry yeast
1 1/4 cups warm water (110°F)
1 tablespoon sugar
2 cups basic sorghum flour blend
1 cup potato starch
1 teaspoon xanthan gum
1 teaspoon guar gum
1/4 cup dry milk powder or Expandex (modified tapioca starch)
1 1/4 to 2 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon soft unsalted butter or margarine
3 large egg whites
1 teaspoon cider vinegar
1 egg white, beaten (optional egg white wash)
1. Dissolve sugar and yeast in warm water. Set aside 5 minutes. 2. Grease French bread pans or line with parchment paper. 3. In bowl of heavy-duty stand mixer, combine the remaining ingredients (except for the beaten egg white) with the yeast mixture. Beat on low speed to blend. Beat on high speed for 2 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl with spatula. Dough will be soft. 4. Divide dough in half on prepared pan. Smooth each half into 12-inch log with wet spatula. Brush with egg wash for a glossier crust. Make 3 diagonal slashes (⅛-inch deep) in each loaf so steam can escape during rising. 5. Place immediately on middle rack in cold oven. Set to 425ºF and bake approximately 30 to 35 minutes, or until nicely browned. 6. Remove bread from pans; cool completely on wire rack before slicing with an electric knife.

Porche Lovely began baking in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada Mountains at the age of seven with the unfortunate demise of an innocent lemon cake. Now a pastry chef and recipe tester, the longtime Denver resident has continued to bake and learn the keys to successful high altitude baking. She is excited to help people learn to love baking at high altitude and enjoy the same luxurious treats available at sea level.