PastryScoop.com Online Chat Transcript

Tish Boyle, Chocolatier Magazine
October 29, 2003

<Kate_PastryScoop> Today we have Tish Boyle of Chocolatier magazine joining us. She is also co-author of Chocolate Passion . She's here to discuss chocolate and answer any of your questions.

<rena> Tish: Any suggestions on the best chocolate to use for tempering? Or does it not matter?

<Tish Boyle> Every pastry chef has a favorite chocolate to work with, and it's a personal preference. I'm partial to Valrhona for tempering. I find it very easy to work with.

<rena> Can consumers find Valrhona easily?

<Tish Boyle> It's sold in small bars in gourmet shops, but is easily available online in 6-lb blocks. Gourmail sells it (do a google search for it).

<pastryNYC> I've seen several methods for tempering. Which is your favorite, or the easiest in your opinion?

<Tish Boyle> Years ago I was taught to melt the chocolate to 115-120 degrees F, cool it down to around 80F, stirring occasionally (I usually add a chunk of tempered chocolate to speed up the process), then bring it up to about 91F, just to make it suitable for working with. No messing with marble slabs; very neat, but works quite well.

<pastryNYC> Thank you, sounds easy enough!

<Angela_PastryScoop> Hi Tish. The holiday season is fast approaching...do you recommend freezing your dough beforehand?

<Tish Boyle> Many cookie doughs freeze quite well, particularly drop cookies. Shape your dough into a log, wrap it well, and slice and bake the cookies as needed.

<Tish Boyle>Cookie dough can be frozen (really well wrapped--use plastic wrap first, then foil, then ziplock) for up to 3 months. I wouldn't go past that.

<Angela_PastryScoop> Thanks!

<rena> I was wondering about European butter versus domestic butter.

<Tish Boyle> I'm in love with European butter, which has lots of character, depending on the region it comes from. Plugra is also excellent. These butters have less water than standard American brands and higher butterfat. They're expensive, so use them when the butter flavor is really going to come through, such as in a butter cookie or tart dough.

<rena> Thanks for the butter answer! I'll use it sparingly.

<rena> Do you have a preference for baking cookies?

<Tish Boyle>Not sure what you mean about a preference for baking cookies, but I love to bake them almost as much as I love to eat them! I love to make holiday-themed cutout cookies to give as gifts around this time of year.

<tciccarini> What is the best way to unmold flourless chocolate cake?

<Tish Boyle> Bake a flourless chocolate cake in a springform, and don't try to unmold it until it is completely cool. If you like, you can even refrigerate it first to be sure it doesn't collapse. Then just remove the side of the springform pan.

<tciccarini> Thanks.

<ccinnkeeper> I have some huge blocks of chocolate, and it is a real mess to chop. I've tried a large chef's knife and one of those chocolate chipping things, and chips still fly all over the place. Do you have any great ideas for controlling the mess?

<Tish Boyle> The best way to chop chocolate is with an offset, serrated knife. All the top brands make one, or go to JB Prince to get one. You can also use a chocolate pick (looks like a sharp pitchfork), but when you want the chocolate finely chopped, use a serrated knife.

<ccinnkeeper> I've got the pick, but I will try an offset serrated knife, thanks. I'll have to order a knife, since I won't be back in NYC until Feb.

<char> What preservatives do you recommend for increasing shelf life of ganache centered chocolates?

<Tish Boyle> In general, I'm against using preservatives in chocolates to prolong shelf life. If you are selling them in an industrial situation, this is necessary, but for a pastry chef, you don't want your chocolates to hang around for that long (and they shouldn't if you're good!). Incorporate as little air as possible in the ganache to prolong shelf life.

<char> What about the addition of sorbitol in the ganache. I understand this will keep the center from drying, retaining moisture.

<Tish Boyle> I can't comment on preservatives, as I do not use them, but if you like, I can speak to some chocolatier friends and get back to you on sorbitol.

<simdelish> How do you pick the pastry chefs you feature each month in PAD?

<Tish Boyle> Pastry chefs submit recipes and, if their work is impressive, we feature them in the 'Signature' section of Pastry Art & Design . We select from this pool of chefs and also take into account any competitions they have entered and how they did. It's certainly not an exact science. If you're a pastry chef and you want to get on the list, give me a call, and I can look at some of your work!

<char> We're looking for a high quality, low viscosity chocolate for enrobing. Any suggestions?

<Tish Boyle> Don't know what your budget is, but Valrhona makes excellent couverture for finishing

<lunatrek> Can someone please define what couverture is and how it is used? Is it essential when making truffles?

<Tish Boyle> Couverture chocolate has a higher cocoa butter content than standard chocolate, so it makes a thinner coating when melted. It is used to "cover" or coat chocolates. Couverture is not essential for making truffles, but makes a thinner coating, which is a desirable thing!

<suzanne> Hi Tish! Thanks for chatting with us! I have a question about ganache. When I want to use it for filling and frosting cakes, I make it in a ratio of 1:1 1/2 cream:chocolate. I let it cool completely, and it's still too liquid-y to use, so I beat it a bit in a stand mixer with a whip and it's perfect. After a few minutes of resting, it stiffens up so I have to warm it a bit before it's usable again. Why does this happen?

<Tish Boyle> Why don't you chill it slightly in an ice bath instead of whipping it? Are you looking for a lighter ganache?

<tciccarini> Do you have a recipe for icing ganache that won't get wet in the refrigerator?

<Tish Boyle> What do you mean by "gets wet in the refrigerator"?

<tciccarini> I work in a bakery. I pour my ganache (equals part of chocolate and cream) over a cake, and when it is cool, I refrigerate it overnight. The next day I see little drops of water all over my ganache, as if my cake was sweating.

<silvip> Can you tell me where to get information about Kosher Pastry?

<Angela_PastryScoop> You should try Joan Nathan for Kosher Pastry ideas. She'll be chatting with us soon as well.

<Tish Boyle>Kosherfest is happenning today at the Javits Center! Do a google search on kosher pastry, but there are some excellent companies around, such as Strauss in Brooklyn (718) 851-7728.

<lysbeth> Tish, when you make chocolates and let them sit overnight after they have been filled with ganache (before closing them), does this shorten the shelf-life of the chocolates? I'm always wondering what it does to the cream to sit out for so many hours. The same goes for ganache that has been poured to be cut and enrobed.

<Tish Boyle> First of all, are we talking about a situation in which you're selling the chocolates, or is this for your home use? There's a big difference here.

<lysbeth> They would be to sell.

<Tish Boyle> Ganache can actually hold for several weeks at room temperature, but I wouldn't risk that if I'm selling the chocolates!

<lunatrek> Can someone please recommend a book that I could purchase to really learn the science of chocolate candy making?

<char> Chocolate, Cocoa and Confectionery, Science and Technology by Bernard Minifie.

<lunatrek> Thanks Char!

<Tish Boyle> Chocolate, Cocoa and Confectionery is quite an old book! My suggestion is to take a pro course to hone your skills. Reading a book isn't going to do it.

<bop> Where can I purchase professional bonbon books?

<Angela_PastryScoop> For those asking about chocolate resources, PastryScoop.com has a ton of info in the LOOK IT UP section. There's a whole chart on types of chocolate and brand names. You can also try ­ www.chocolatesource.com for purchasing chocolates.

<blueginger> Hello, I have a baby knowledge about chocolate, but I want to make chocolate caramel apples. What kind of chocolate can I use?

<Angela_PastryScoop> I think a dark couveture chocolate would be nice for chocolate covered apples.

<blueginger> Where do I find couverture chocolate?

<Tish Boyle> For caramel apples, use any couverture. You don't want the coating to be too thick, as there's a lot going on there already.

<blueginger> Regular supermarket bought chocolate will do?

<Angela_PastryScoop> I think if you have access to a specialty food shop, you'll find better quality chocolate. Some supermarkets (like Whole Foods) have quality chocolates, but many don't.

<Tish Boyle> Try chefswarehouse.com for chocolate or DairyFresh at 800-336-5536.

<char> Have you used Belcolade chocolate?

<Tish Boyle> Belcolade is a high-end Belgian chocolate that competes with Callebaut. It is quite good, and I use it occasionally.

<gwingg> Tish, I am a cooking school teacher and enthusiastic amateur chocolatier. I'm thinking of buying a chocolate tempering machine. Good idea? If so, any recommendations?

<Tish Boyle> Re: tempering machines: not sure what your budget is, but ChocoVision has a whole line of excellent, small machines. Larger machines are more appropriate in a retail situation.

<galeon> What company would you recommend for a retail situations?

<lysbeth> If you are serious about buying a tempering machine, I'd look at the x3210 from ChocoVision; you'll be so much happier with the bigger machine.

<gwingg> Thanks for the tempering machine info. I'd been looking at their Revolation 2. I love The Good Cookie ; are you working on any more books?

<silvip> You said before that pastry chefs can call you to get a review on our work. Where do we call you?

<Tish Boyle> My email is ­tish@tishboyle.com­ and phone is 212-239-0855, ext. 26.

<char> Do you know of anyone that ships chocolate centerpieces or boxes made of chocolate?

<Tish Boyle> Try Chocolates a la Carte in Los Angeles. They have a website, I believe.

<simdelish> Tish, do you see any new trends in chocolate making these days? I understand "Luxury" is back in for the holidays (as "comfort" has been in since 9/11).

<Tish Boyle> Luxury is in. Godiva just came out with their 'G' line of chocolates which sell for $100/pound! Yikes! Herbs and spices (even cheese) is going mainstream as filling flavors in chocolates. It doesn't always work that well, either! I had a taleggio cheese truffle recently that I thought was horrible!

<silvip> I am making chocolate covered candies, and I intend to sell them. How do I keep them fresh? And for how long will they stay fresh?

<Tish Boyle> You need to use a preservative. Albert Uster in MD will have what you need, depending on the filling you're using.

<Angela_PastryScoop> You can find Albert Uster's link on the PastryScoop.com Resource Page.

<Jen> Tish, What is your favorite all-time cookie recipe?

<Tish Boyle> My favorite cookie is a chocolate sandwich cookie made with Valrhona cocoa by Amy's Cookies and sold at Dean & Deluca. I have a recipe for the cookie in my latest book, The Good Cookie . It has a Kahlua-laced filling. It's way beyond the Oreo.

<Boyle> Are there any places that you know that would take a chocolate apprentice?

<Angela_PastryScoop> Many chocolate shops, especially during this time of the year, take on interns/apprentices. You can pick your favorite and offer your time.

<Tish Boyle> Re: chocolate apprentice: Yes, possibly, but it would be better if you contacted me directly so we can chat about your background first!

<Boyle> What suggestions do you have for a beginning chocolate entrepreneur?

<Angela_PastryScoop> I would look for pastry classes/chocolate classes to begin with, and at the same time seek work/apprenticeship with a chocolate shop.

<gwingg> To the chocolatier who wants to start his own business, have you thought about trying to work with a local restaurant? One might be interested in having you come in once or twice a week and make truffles for them. That way you'd be using a commercial kitchen and all. Just an idea. I want to do this with desserts...

<Boyle> I've found out that the Board of Health will not allow you to make and sell chocolate out of your home. Starting a business is so expensive that the overhead for renting a facility is just out of the question. Any ideas on that?

<Tish Boyle> You're right, and it's a real problem if you're just starting out. There are professional kitchens that are available for sharing, however, which gets around this problem. I know someone who had a cookie business out of her home (she had a sheeter in her living room!) and the business overtook her. Her landlord finally told her she had to stop (UPS was constantly in and out). So she's in a share-space kitchen now.

<char> Check with your state department or agriculture representative. In North Carolina it is considered manufacturing, and as long as they approve your facility as clean and wholesome, you can have a business in a home.

<Angela_PastryScoop> If you get a chance, e-mail me at ­info@pastryscoop.com­ on pastry spac that is for rent. I recently heard about it and it sounds like an option for you.

<Boyle> I will, thanks.

<cgenua> When I'm baking a pecan dacquoise, it seems to rise, but once at room temperature it deflates. Any reason why?

<Tish Boyle> Your meringue is rising? What's in your recipe? Something's wrong.

<cgenua> I use 7 egg whites whipped until stiff and then I fold in 2 c. of ground pecans (mixed with 3/4 c. sugar).

<char> What do you think is an average shelf life for chocolate truffles?

<Tish Boyle> No preservatives, 5 days.

<schiznick> Do you know of anyone giving professional classes in the mid-west area, aside from the French Pastry School?

<lysbeth> You can go to Elgin Community College; they have a great pastry program! Let me know if you need any info. I attended all the classes there.

<Angela_PastryScoop> Thank you to everyone for joining us today! So many great questions and thanks to Tish for her thoughtful answers! And check out the future chat schedule. We'll have to have Tish back soon!