No longer content to let the creative potential of marzipan remain across the Atlantic, a new generation of American pastry chefs is taking the paste into their own hands to develop an exciting new category of baking, confectionery and dessert concepts. Starting with top-ranking practitioners of the sweet arts, the Almond Board of California is building a collection of marzipan sensations based on classic almond forms.
Johnny Iuzzini is the executive pastry chef for Jean Georges and Nougatine in New York City. Having apprenticed in pastry kitchens on both sides of the Atlantic, he draws on both old-world and new-world almond experience. He was recognized as 2006 Outstanding Pastry Chef of the Year by the James Beard Foundation. Click here to read Johnny Iuzzini's recipe for chocolate almond petit fours.
Emily Luchetti, executive pastry chef at Farallon in San Francisco, honed her pastry skills and her appreciation for distinctive dessert ingredients (including marzipan and almond paste) at Stars restaurant. She was the James Beard 2004 Outstanding Pastry Chef of the Year, and is the author of several dessert books, including A Passion for Desserts and A Passion for Ice Cream.
Sue McCown, formerly of the W Hotel, Seattle and now executive pastry chef/owner at Coco La Ti Da, fast-talked her way into her first restaurant job as a ticket to ski the Swiss Alps, and left hooked on the intensity and passion of restaurant kitchens—and with a European penchant for marzipan. She is currently at work on her first pastry cookbook.
Mindy Segal has recently opened her first solo venture, Hot Chocolate, a quirky urban café in Chicago. An alumna of some of Chicago's most prestigious kitchens, Segal gained national attention as pastry chef at mk, where her dessert innovations and unique presentations garnered critical acclaim.
Click here to download a brochure featuring recipes from the chef luminaries or email info@almondboard.com to receive a copy by mail.
Chocolate Almond Petit Four by Johnny Iuzzini Makes 1/4 sheet pan
Almond, orange, and coffee are layered to flavorful effect to create these not-your-average petits fours. Johnny uses almond paste to make orange-scented marzipan, praline paste to enhance the rich chocolate layer, and toasted slivered almonds and espresso beans to infuse cream for the ganache. It all stacks up to an elegant indulgence.
Orange Marzipan
8 ounces (225 grams) of almond paste (50/50)
2.1 ounces (60 grams) of light corn syrup
zest of 1 orange
1 teaspoon of orange oil
6.5 ounces (185 grams) of confectioners' sugar, sifted
1 ounce (28 grams) of dark chocolate, melted
Combine almond paste, corn syrup, orange zest, and orange oil, and blend gently.
Add confectioners' sugar and knead together until smooth and all the sugar is incorporated.
Roll out evenly on a sheet of parchment paper to the exact size of a quarter sheet pan (13" x 9 1/2" x 1"). Spread the surface evenly with the melted chocolate and allow to set.
Once set, flip over onto a tray lined with a piece of parchment paper.
Almond Praline
4.5 ounces (128 grams) of milk chocolate, tempered
18 ounces (502 grams) of almond praline
1.5 ounces (42 grams) of cocoa butter, melted and kept warm
4 ounces (113 grams) of feuilletine
Temper the milk chocolate following the manufacturer's guidelines.
Add the praline and the cocoa butter, and carefully blend in the feuilletine.
Spread evenly over the orange marzipan and allow to set.
Almond-Espresso Ganache
12.5 ounces (350 grams) of heavy cream
2 ounces (56 grams) of slivered almonds
1 ounces (28 grams) of espresso beans, cracked
1.25 ounces (34 grams) or trimoline (invert sugar)
9.5 ounces (266 grams) of chocolate, Valrhona extra bitter 61%, half-melted
1.5 ounces (42 grams) of unsalted butter, room temperature
Warm the cream slowly in a saucepan.
Meanwhile, toast the almonds until very dark; while still hot, add to the heavy cream along with the espresso beans. Bring to a quick simmer and remove from heat. Allow to infuse, covered for 20 minutes.
Strain, adding additional heavy cream if necessary, to measure 7 3/4 ounces (216 grams). Transfer infused-cream to a clean saucepan with the trimoline and bring to a boil.
Slowly stir cream mixture into the center of the chocolate, making sure to create and maintain an emulsion. Carefully stir in the butter and spread over the praline; allow to set.
To Assemble
Bittersweet chocolate, tempered
Fleur de sel
Once set, cut petits fours into desired shapes and dip in tempered chocolate. Before the chocolate sets, sprinkle with some fleur de sel.
