PastryScoop.com Summer Wedding Cake Chat Series

Susan Morgan of Elegant Cheese Cakes
June 30, 2004

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Hi everyone and welcome to our chat today with cake artist Susan Morgan. Susan's cakes have been featured in numerous magazines and television programs. The best part is that all of her cakes are cheesecakes! Welcome Susan!

<Susan Morgan> Hello and thank you for having me!

<Deborah> How did you ever think to make a wedding cake out of cheesecake?

<Susan Morgan> I made my first wedding cheesecake 17 years ago. It was my sister's wedding and everyone went nuts over the cake! Afterwards, I started working on recipes and eventually got it right. The chocolate designs began to develop next, and the rest is history!

<dianne02> How did you decide on cheesecake as a primary product?

<Susan Morgan> I guess my confidence was in the fact that it is one of the country's most beloved desserts. It was and is different and new. Besides, why wouldn't guests love to have cheesecake at a wedding?!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Can you give us a brief overview of the cakes you create at Elegant Cheese Cakes?

<Susan Morgan> We now not only create a full menu of cheesecakes but we also create traditional butter cakes finished with chocolate rather than fondant. I find chocolate a better companion with cake compared to fondant. It's much nicer to eat!

We use Belgian Callebaut chocolate and a hint of corn syrup to make our chocolate paper (some call it chocolate plastic). Next, we roll out the paper and it holds its form when refrigerated or set aside until we are ready to cover a cake. All of our adornments are done with chocolate. Often we add colors and allow the technique to be very imaginative. If the base finish of the cake is not done in chocolate paper, we generally use ganache or buttercream.

<Lelka> How long did it take to you to come up with your recipes? Was it a process of trial and error?

<Susan Morgan> It took a few years to modify the recipes. Even now, we still need to refresh our recipes depending on the consistency of our supplier's product.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Do your cheesecakes have a crust on the bottom?

<Susan Morgan> Yes, but not a graham cracker crust. It tends to be a butter cookie crust but varies with the cake flavoring and design. There are many options.

<Roberson> Do you add any types of flavors to your cheesecakes? If so, what flavors do you recommend?

<Susan Morgan> We use, and I recommend, the best vanilla you can find. Don't skimp. Yes, these days vanilla is pricey, but I promise, you can really taste the difference.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> People ask me all the time how they can prevent a cheesecake from cracking. Do you have any suggestions?

<Susan Morgan> Our cheesecakes crack from time to time too, but baking them in a bain marie (water bath) will certainly help eliminate the cracking. If the cheesecake rises too fast, you will alter the texture of the final product, making water an essential part of baking.

<Shelly> How do you make a cheesecake sturdy enough to hold a sufficient amount of weight to construct a wedding cake? How do you make a cheesecake with a regular cake on the bottom?

<Susan Morgan> The cheesecake recipe I have developed creates a sturdier than normal cheesecake. Also, adding chocolate helps to firm up the cake. Once you start constructing the tiers with dowels and pillars, it all becomes a matter of physics!

<Lelka> How do you get your cheesecakes so tall?

<Susan Morgan> The height of our cheesecakes comes from stacking or layering them. Sometimes we will double bake the cakes to achieve the desired height. But keep in mind that great height can look great for presentation's sake, yet look awkward served on a plate. Remember to balance the height options.

<Marge> Do you double layer the cheesecake like a regular cake? If so, do you put two cheesecakes right on top of each other?

<Susan Morgan> The layers vary depending on the cake and the client. One tier may be cheesecake and the next may be our chocolate decadent cake followed with another tier of cheesecake. Sometimes it is solely tiers of cheesecake.

<Shelly> How do you make a regular cake on the bottom and a cheesecake on top?

<Susan Morgan> Each cake is a separate cake, meaning we bake each cake individually and then layer them like you would any number of tiers on a wedding cake.

<joshalow> How long can a cheesecake be left at room temperature?

<Susan Morgan> A cheesecake can be left out at room temperature for a limited time- two to four hours indoors. The chocolate does help insulate the cheesecake's core temperature and provide it with extra structural support.

<Becky> What is the shelf life of your cakes?

<Susan Morgan> The cakes will keep eight days in the refrigerator. At room temperature, a cheesecake can sit out two to four hours. However, I find the flavor of a cheesecake to be best when served warm.

<Deborah> I love the colors and creative designs of your cakes. I saw a spotlight featuring you on FoodTV that showed you making one of your cheesecakes. It appears that you have a special two-sided pan for your limoge cakes. Are these pans custom made or retail?

<Susan Morgan> For those of you who are unfamiliar, limoge pans are oval shaped and usually come in a set of two. The limoge style pans we use are bought in bulk from Wilton. The pans make for a better-baked cheesecake. However, we usually stack the cheesecakes because the pans are too short.

<Lelka> Susan, what pans work best for cheesecakes?

<Susan Morgan> Loose bottom pans, like springform pans, work well. But be sure to watch out for water from your water bath seeping into your cake batter!

<bronzi3> Do all the pans you use have removable bottoms?

<Susan Morgan> No. We try to use 3-inch deep pans, if possible.

<Guest155> Susan, do you use parchment as a liner in the cheesecake pan

<Susan Morgan> I find a parchment liner unnecessary simply because the butter in the crust will loosen the cheesecake enough to properly unmold it.

<Sandra> Is there anything special to consider when adding decorative finishes with cheesecakes?

<Susan Morgan> Decorative finishes should depend on a few key factors. First and foremost, what your client wants in a cake. Other factors to consider are design shapes, design colors, and the number of guests attending the event.

<Deborah> You achieve such beautiful, vibrant colors in your cakes. What type of coloring do you use?

<Susan Morgan> We use paste colors because I find that powder colors are too dull. I like my chocolate paper to be clear and colorful! As for the actual coloring, it requires a keen eye to get those hot, sassy looks!

<Deborah> Do you cover your chocolate wrapped cakes with a layer of buttercream first? What type of buttercream do you use?

<Susan Morgan> If the cake is level and smooth, we do not use a buttercream base at all. Otherwise, we use a white chocolate cream cheese buttercream as a crumb coat before covering the cake with chocolate paper. We use both Italian and Swiss buttercreams with a variety of flavors. Visit www.elegantcheesecakes.com for more details on our specialty cakes, flavors, and fillings.

<Ann> For the cheesecake wedding cakes, what icing do you use as a buttercream? I used a cream cheese frosting once, but within 24 hours, it began to slide off of the cake. Any suggestions?

<Susan Morgan> For cheesecake wedding cakes we use a classic Italian buttercream or a sturdy ganache. As additional architectural support, we use dowels.

<nichel> Are your flowers made from chocolate as well? How do they react to the heat of summer?

<Susan Morgan> All of our cake adornments are made from chocolate. Because heat and chocolate do not work well together, flowers and other decorations are kept in a temperature-controlled environment, out of the sun. All things considered, they do hold up fairly well.

<kim> What type of chocolate do you use? Do you ever use candy coating?

<Susan Morgan> We use only Callebaut chocolate. We use chocolate candy coating when writing on a cake to prevent possible chocolate bloom.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> For a list of chocolate companies, check out the "Chocolate Chart" in the LOOK IT UP section of PastryScoop.com.

<nichel> How much chocolate do you use in a week?

<Susan Morgan> We purchase 20 cases of chocolate at a time and go through it quickly. We use it in our buttercreams and ganaches as well as in our chocolate paper.

<Becky> Does the white chocolate paper that you use have the same consistency as fondant?

<Susan Morgan> Actually, I have never worked with fondant, but I am told that the consistency of the two is very similar.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> How do you get your chocolate paper to shine?

<Susan Morgan> The shine comes from a product we apply known as pearl dust or luster dust.

<joshalow> Does your chocolate paper sweat like fondant during and after refrigeration?

<Susan Morgan> Yes, it does sweat. I suggest keeping your covered cakes wrapped tightly with plastic or in airtight boxes to win the sweat wars!

<jmt> What do you use to roll the chocolate paper out on? What do you use to prevent sticking?

<Susan Morgan> We use sheeters to roll the chocolate paper, and fortunately it does not have a tendency to stick.

<jmt> Without a sheeter, how would you roll out chocolate paper? (Unfortunately I can't afford one yet!)

<Susan Morgan> To roll out chocolate paper by hand, use a rolling pin (no confectioner's sugar necessary), or if you have one, a pasta machine.

<Marge> Does chocolate paper stay pliable, or does it tend to get hard?

<Susan Morgan> Depending on your location, you can alter the texture of the chocolate plastic you make. Use less corn syrup in hotter, humid areas so the paper will be stiffer and hold up better.

<Christine> What medium do you use to pipe designs on the chocolate paper?

<Susan Morgan> We use chocolate and buttercream to pipe the borders of the cake.

<Marge> I have used chocolate paper for specific cake decorations but find when I attach it to a cake and refrigerate it, the adornments will fall off once I bring the cake to room temperature. Any suggestions?

<Susan Morgan> Be sure to glue the adornments to the cake with royal icing or adhere heavier decorations with toothpicks. Remember to also remind the servers at the event that there are toothpicks in the cake!

<Marge> I have a hard time keeping chocolate from not getting hard when piping. What is your strategy? Do you keep making piping bags, filling them with chocolate and piping as fast as you can?

<Susan Morgan> Try using a heating pad to keep your piping chocolate warm and cooperative!

<Steve> What is the average time to bake, assemble, and finish a wedding cake?

<Susan Morgan> Approximately 15 hours, depending of course on the intricacy of the finishing touches. However, because we do bake and assemble many cakes at a time, many processes are lumped together, and we are able to save some time within certain steps.

<Lelka> What is the typical process when making a cake?

<Susan Morgan> We bake our cakes first, then chill the cakes. Next we cover the cakes with a simple finish of buttercream and chocolate paper and chill them again. To complete the cakes, we add the necessary adornments and chill until delivery.

<nichel> How far in advance do you make the cheesecakes? How do you ship your cheesecakes?

<Susan Morgan> We make our cheesecakes weekly. They stay fresh for two weeks before they begin to dry out. In general, we make the cheesecakes on Wednesday for weekend events. Transportation requires the utmost care and attention. Depending on the cake and the distance, we will travel with the cake to the site to be sure that all finishing touches are perfect. When we are shipping a cheesecake for mail order, we pack the cake in foam prior to freezing so it is not exposed to air flow or susceptible to freezer burn. For very large wedding cakes or very special events, we will ship the cake with dry ice.

<Kim> How many cakes do you typically create and transport in a week?

<Susan Morgan> We generally produce four to eight wedding cakes in a weekend in addition to other theme cakes for special events. We ship items from our site daily to all corners of the country!

<dawnd> How many people work at Elegant Cheese Cakes? Where do you find your employees?

<Susan Morgan> We are a small crew of five steady gals who have been a team for many years. When I first opened I hired local gals who had great attitudes- some artistic and some consistently great workers who love the business. We have been together ever since.

<Lelka> Where did you learn to design and decorate?

<Susan Morgan> I am self-taught. As a design team, we often feed off of textures in fabrics as well as nature for inspiration.

<Lelka> Because you are self taught, how long did it take for you to improve on your skills?

<Susan Morgan> I've been at this for over 17 years, but it took two years of serious practice before I actually felt that what I was creating was worthy. However, I was always an artsy painter and certainly consider myself a creative person, so in reality this is just candy work for me!

<nichel> Any suggestions for beginners as to books, recipes, classes?

<Susan Morgan> Nicholas Lodge seems to be a good source for cake decorating books and tools. He also teaches classes to develop decorating skills and techniques. I actually took one of his classes 14 years ago! At some point down the road, I will teach classes, but right now I have a young son and husband that need some of my time too! Until then, email me with your specs, and I will update you when we have concrete dates and plans for such classes.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Also, I should mention that we have Tina Prestia joining us on this chat. She can tell you about pastry classes offered at The French Culinary Institute in NYC. Part of the program teaches chocolate plastic/paper in the wedding cake section.

<TinaFCI> For those of you interested getting into any aspect of the industry, The FCI offers professional Classic Pastry Arts classes that are either 6 or 9 month programs. We also have a shorter class called the Essentials of Pastry designed for the serious amateur.

To get more information on The FCI's program's and classes, log onto their website at www.frenchculinary.com or call 1-888-FCI-CHEF.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> PastryScoop.com also organizes conferences that teach short, two-hour workshops on topics such as wedding cakes. Our next conference is Sunday, October 17th and will take place at The FCI in NYC.

<Steve> I have always considered starting a business, but never seem to find the time to perfect my skills as much as I would like before starting.

<Susan Morgan> My advice to you is that you cannot sell a product that looks like elementary school work. It's best to perfect your product first, then market yourself. Otherwise, people and the industry will have a lower opinion of your skill and your product. Top notch only! We strive to be different, but we also cater to people who want a clever cake and are willing to pay for the best.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> I agree with Susan. Especially when making someone else's wedding cake, it's important not to take too many risks without practicing first. I suggest making beautiful birthday cakes or smaller tiered cakes for showers, etc. When you get the hang of it, go for the big stuff!

<dianne02> How did you start your business?

<Susan Morgan> I started at home like everyone else. Then I moved to a caterer's kitchen while I submitted all of the legal paperwork. Once all of the documents went through, I set up shop in my own studio-showroom and kitchen in a commercial district of Half Moon Bay.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Do you have any upcoming appearances that you'd like to share with our members? I know that you were recently featured on FoodTV.

<Susan Morgan> We will be on FoodTV's TOP 5 segment of Designer Dessert on July 2 nd and 3 rd as well as July 10 th and 11 th .

<Lelka> What did you do for a living before Elegant Cheese Cakes?

<Susan Morgan> I was in sales for Kimberly Clark but was always an artsy entrepreneur type of gal!

<Lelka> Are you a ICES member?

<Susan Morgan> I am not a ICES member, but I do occasionally go to trade meetings. Lately, I seem to have less time to network as I spend the majority of my time creating!

<nichel> How do you feel about decorators replicating your cakes?

<Susan Morgan> I think that we, as an industry of cake designers and decorators, should stay within our own individual styles. In my opinion, it lacks creativity to copy. For those of you that crave to be independent designers, my advice is to stay focused on your own design thoughts and create your own niche in the industry ¾ there is plenty of room for passionate individuals with talent! If you are truly interested, you have what it takes to make your own statement!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Unfortunately, our time with Susan Morgan is up. Thank you Susan for sharing so many wonderful tips and suggestions with our members!

<Susan Morgan> Thank you for having me ¾ I had a great time. If you have any other questions or need for help, you are free to email me at susan@elegantcheesecakes.com. I'll help whenever and wherever I can!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> A transcript of this chat in addition to the other online chats from our summer wedding cake series will be available in July. For access to previous chat series transcripts, click on the "Conference & Events" section on the navigation bar on www.pastryscoop.com.