PastryScoop.com Spring Chat Series

Richard Muszynski of Ricard Chocolat
April 7, 2004

<Kate_PastryScoop> Hi Everyone! Today we'll be talking with Richard Muszynski of Ricard Chocolat. Richard will be taking questions about Spring and Easter desserts and of course, everything CHOCOLATE! Hi Richard!

<RichardMuszynski> Hello!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Richard, please tell everyone about your chocolates.

<RichardMuszynski> Ricard Chocolat is a high quality product, manufactured in New York City. We use organic ingredients from the green market at Union Square to create all of our products. If you go to www.ricardchocolat.com, you can check out some of the products!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Do you have a store location?

<RichardMuszynski> Currently, you can come visit me at R.S.V.P. on Lexington Ave. between 73rd and 72nd. We have all the products available there.

<Ingrid> Do you use a tempering machine when making chocolates?

<RichardMuszynski> Yes. I have a 100 lb. tempering machine that only holds our 73% Venezuelan single bean couverture.

<Ingrid> I find that when tempering at home it is difficult to keep the chocolate at the right temperature.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Richard, can you offer our members some tips for tempering at home?

<RichardMuszynski> Tempering at home is not difficult. Your biggest challenge is the right humidity in your kitchen. Chocolate does not respond well to humidity and usually this will be the biggest cause for products not wanting to eject from their cavity molds.

<grazia> Before unmolding chocolates, do you suggest placing your filled chocolate molds in the freezer for several minutes?

<RichardMuszynski> Yes. You should shock the chocolate in the freezer. However, sometimes that does not work as well if the humidity is high in your kitchen. Usually you can tell whether the humidity is too high just from the feel of the air, but check the weather forecast and they will give you humidity reports.

<Ingrid> Would you say 40% or less humidity?

<RichardMuszynski> On days when the humidity is 100%, I go to the beach! Don’t bother working!! But, yes. 40% is a good humidity limit. If there is a humidity problem, I turn on the air conditioning.

<leticia> What kind of thermometer do you recommend for chocolate?

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> I prefer to use a digital thermometer.

<leticia> Can I buy a digital thermometer at J.B. prince?

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Yes! Williams-Sonoma also carries nice models.

<leticia> Are digital thermometers specifically for chocolate?

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> No. They can be used for lots of things.

<grazia> What is the best chocolate to use for dipping truffles?

<RichardMuszynski> I like to pair certain chocolates with flavors that they will be couvering. For example, if I am using a mocha-infused ganache, I like to find a type of coverture that carries more roasted, deep, dark flavors to match that particular ganache.

<grazia> Rich, if you were going to dip an orange flavored truffle, what would be the best chocolate?

<RichardMuszynski> I think it is best to go to a high-end shop that sells bars of chocolate, buy half a dozen different couverture bars, go home and do a taste test. Try to pull out flavors in the aftertaste of the chocolates to compliment an orange flavored truffle. Chocolate is the same as wines and coffees, you have to remember that it’s a roasted bean. By roasting it, you are determining the final flavors that that particular bean will be giving off.

<grazia> Are there any particular high-end chocolate stores online? It is difficult to find quality chocolate anywhere in my area. I have a small cookie business and I use a lot of chocolate.

<RichardMuszynski> If you’re looking for some chocolate bars to sample, you can go online to shops such as Williams-Sonoma or Dean & DeLuca and place an order. If you have purveyors for your shop, you should be able to get free samples from vendors that they work with.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> We also have a list of chocolate resources on PastryScoop.com’s “Look It Up” section. The “Chocolate Chart” includes dozens of chocolate manufactures that you can order from directly.

<pstryprncss> Healthier desserts are becoming more and more the rage. Is there any advice you can offer in the way of incorporating chocolate into these types of desserts?

<RichardMuszynski> I have a dessert that I have created that is actually accepted on the Atkins diet! It is a 72% warm chocolate-espresso cake with bitter chocolate ganache and malted anglaise. The cake is literally sugar-free. As you know sugar turns into carbs and the Atkins diet is not carb-friendly!

<Annie> I am having a problem with the filling of my chocolates leaking out. Any ideas?

<RichardMuszynski> Try letting your ganache set-up longer before pouring it into the cavity molds. If this does not solve your dilemma, perhaps your ratio for ganache is off.

<Ingrid> Richard, you said you use Venezuelan beans when making your chocolate. Do the French and Dutch chocolatiers use the same?

<RichardMuszynski> Cocoa beans only come from certain areas of the world. Regardless if the chocolate is manufactured in France or Austria, the actual beans only come from certain places such as Venezuela or Madagascar.

<Ingrid> Speaking of Madagascar, I prefer vanilla from there. Do you have a favorite?

<RichardMuszynski> Vanilla beans are very expensive right now. I prefer going with the Tahitian beans because they are the least expensive, but still give you great flavor.

<tciccarini> Have you tried tempering chocolate in the microwave? How does it work?

<RichardMuszynski> The microwave is the only way I melt and temper chocolate. However, it is important not to burn the chocolate in the microwave. I usually melt high-end couverture for 2 minutes (no longer), and then stir.

<tciccarini> I used other methods for tempering (the marble table), but found it impossible at home.

<RichardMuszynski> Place your cocoa in a Pyrex bowl and melt it in 2 minute cycles. When using white chocolate, melt it in 1 minute increments.

<Ingrid> I have tried many times to melt white chocolate in the microwave, but it heats too quickly and seizes. I can only do it in a double-boiler.

<Vera> Use 50% power to melt your chocolate with 30 second intervals and it usually keeps the chocolate, especially white chocolate, from seizing.

<NhumiSD> Rich, can you give us some tips on converting from gelatin sheets to powder gelatin?

<RichardMuszynski> I believe the conversion is .75 oz of powder gelatin to 2 sheets of gelatin.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> ¼ oz. packet of powdered gelatin = 3 ½ sheets (4"x9"). You can find other recipe conversions on PastryScoop.com, as well.

<Annie> Do you have any tricks to prevent nut ganache from separating—it’s oil content is so high!

<starlitexprss> I have made ganache with Nutella before, it tastes awesome. And I haven't had a problem with it separating.

<grazia> I love white chocolate. I have seen several shows on forming white chocolate using corn syrup. Is this how you would make white chocolate to form into flowers, strips, etc.?

<Ingrid> You can use corn syrup or glycerin. You can also make flowers with gum paste or pastiage.

<pstryprncss> What are your thoughts on pre-tempered chocolates that you can melt down and just use?

<RichardMuszynski> I have never used pre-tempered chocolate only because it usually consists of a lower quality product and contains palm oils which are bad for your digestive system.

<saffron> In my opinion, those pre-tempered chocolates taste like plastic.

<starlitexprss> I just recently used candy melts to create Easter decorations for cupcakes. They turned out wonderful and were very easy to work with.

<starlitexprss> You can find the candy melts online, at Wilton stores, or Michael’s craft stores. They don't taste bad but they are not great either. However, they are great for making decorations for cakes and such. Then they are not the main part of the dessert, only an accessory.

<tciccarini> Richard, what is your favorite Easter dessert?

<RichardMuszynski> At springtime, I love making mousse desserts in the shape of Easter bonnets. In general, I think light airy desserts are great for Easter. Perhaps a nice mousseline or a frozen parfait.

<Ingrid> One of the best Easter desserts I’ve ever made was a roulade filled with apricot jam and covered with pastel marzipan.

<Ingrid> I once made a dessert for Easter consisting of strawberries and rhubarb in puff pastry, served with crème anglaise. Richard, do you prefer light desserts for Easter, or do you go headlong, full-out chocolate?

<RichardMuszynski> I think spring is nice to do lighter desserts, only because people tend to not want to order dessert knowing summer is on the way! Since this is the time when local produce is becoming more available I like to do a lot with rhubarb.

<Ingrid> Richard, do you make any lemon desserts?

<RichardMuszynski> Actually, one of my favorite seasonal desserts is a frozen lemon poppy seed parfait with a ragout of poached rhubarb.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> In addition to numerous other awards, Richard’s Swifty’s Bananas Foster Baked Alaska was a winner in the Best Dessert Revival category at this year’s Golden Scoop Awards. We will be posting all the winning recipes on www.PastryScoop.com in the coming weeks. Check back in for Richard’s recipe.

<Annie> Coming from an Italian background our spring/Easter favorites are traditionally made with cheese. Do you think Americans would like these kinds of desserts on Easter?

<RichardMuszynski> I think cheese desserts are nice, but better in the winter when it is cold out. People tend to enjoy heavier and richer items then.

<Ingrid> Richard, have you been able to pair lemon with chocolate?

<RichardMuszynski> I like to do a great tart with thinly sliced Meyer lemons, a lemon curd and almond cream. The Meyer lemons have a great flavor to them.

<Ingrid> I have read about Meyer lemons. Where does one get them?

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Dean & DeLuca sells them.

<ymalcolm> Also the Chelsea Market in New York City.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> You can also purchase Meyer lemons online from various citrus websites.

<RichardMuszynski> But remember, they are seasonal.

<ymalcolm> Rich, what’s the best way to concentrate fruit flavors when adding them to a ganache, so that the consistency doesn't become too watery, but the flavor still comes through?

<RichardMuszynski> When you are melting your chocolate, make a ganache first with your cream and chocolate. This breaks down the chocolate and it’s easier to incorporate it fully into your pate a bombe and whipped cream.

<Ingrid> When I was in school, we used fruit compotes. They made lovely mousses.

<NhumiSD> Rich, if you could redo your education, would you still pick the same educational track to become a pastry chef?

<RichardMuszynski> I think the schooling that I went through was not as up-to-speed as I needed. However, that was only because I had previous restaurant experience. I think the techniques and contacts you gain from a formal culinary education are priceless.

<NhumiSD> Which school would you recommend?

<RichardMuszynski> The FCI is a fantastic school with great instructors. If you are interested in food, they can help you!

<Jock_FCI> I can help anyone with info on The French Culinary Institute. Just email me at jgrundy@frenchculinary.com

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Unfortunately, it’s time to end today’s chat. Thank you to everyone for joining us! And, of course, THANKS to Chef Richard for sharing his pastry and chocolate know-how.

<Ingrid> Thank you Richard. It was wonderful for you to take time out of your busy day. Have a wonderful holiday.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Bye Richard! Thank you again.

<Kate_PastryScoop> Thanks Richard!

<RichardMuszynski> Thank you! Visit the website www.ricardchocolat.com and check out the products!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Our next chat will be Wednesday, April 22 and will feature Spring Baking with P.J. Hamel from King Arthur Flour.

<Kate_PastryScoop> Also, for the June 19th evening pastry program there is a special opportunity: bread workshops and a 4-day trip to Paris after graduation!

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