PastryScoop Holiday Chat Series

Tara Bench, Martha Stewart Living
December 15, 2004

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Hello and welcome to our chat today with TARA BENCH from Martha Stewart Living. Tara, can you tell our guests today a little about what you do at MSL?

<Tara_MSL> Hi. Thank you for having me.

<Tara_MSL> Yes, I am a food editor for Martha Stewart Living, Weddings, and Kids magazines.

<Tara_MSL> Along with the other editors, I develop the recipes that go in the magazines.

<Tara_MSL> We also food style for the photography, which is a fun part of my job.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> That’s great Tara. Thank you.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Tara hosted a fantastic workshop at our October conference called “Baking for Gift Giving.” We’re still talking about the delicious apple cake with cream cheese frosting that you made for us!

<Tara_MSL> Oh yes, that was one of my favorites.

<Sami> Hi Tara. I attended your demo that PastryScoop had back in October. I attempted to make the applesauce cake at home and it was good but the applesauce I made was a bit bitter. Any recommendations?

<Tara_MSL> I would suggest using different apples to get slightly different flavors in your applesauce and to cook it in a non-reactive pan since it has a little acid in it.

<Sami> I used Golden Delicious like the recipe called for. What apples do you suggest?

<Tara_MSL> McIntosh, Yellow Transplant, or Cortland are all good alternatives.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Also, when making caramel applesauce, be sure not to let your caramel get too dark. That could have been the source of the bitterness.

<Sami> Thanks!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Tara, I see that you take recipe submissions for Everyday Food from the public. How does that work?

<Tara_MSL> Yes, the editors of Everyday Food receive recipes by mail or email (feel free to send some in) and we test them in our kitchen.

<Tara_MSL> Then a panel of editors will decide what recipes to include in the issues, depending on the season and themes of each issue.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> From all the dessert recipes that you’ve tested in the kitchens there, do you have any real knock-out favorites?

<Tara_MSL> Well, recently we did a take on the classic pecan pie for the December issue. That was a winner.

<Tara_MSL> The Boozy Cakes story in the November issue was a favorite as well.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> I love a good boozy cake!

<Mary> Tara, I loved your waffle iron cookies in the December issue. What a fun idea!

<Tara_MSL> Yes, the waffle iron cookies are a fun alternative, and I quite like the cinnamon chocolate flavor myself!

<aletha> How many are there testing recipes? Who makes the final decision on what goes in the magazine?

<Tara_MSL> There are three or four people testing the recipes, depending on our work load.

<Tara_MSL> All the editors have the opportunity to taste-test everything. And along with our Food Editor, Lucinda, we all weigh-in on the final decisions.

<Kate_PastryScoop> Tara, I love Everyday Food. So many recipes that are wonderful, but not complicated. From the Oct. (or maybe Nov.) issue, I made the pumpkin chocolate chip squares. They were great, but the recipe said to line the pan with foil and it was a little hard getting them out. Why foil instead of parchment paper?

< Tara_MSL> I would imagine they suggested foil for the novice cook or those trying to cook simply. They probably thought foil was more accessible.

<Tara_MSL> I don’t work on the Everyday Food magazines, but I know they intentionally make the recipes a bit simpler than in Living.

<Tara_MSL> Parchment would be a fine alternative.

<Kate_PastryScoop> Thanks.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> I think the concept for Everyday Food is great. And also love a good multi-step recipe that’s a real labor of love. Different kinds of recipes for different occasions and moods.

<aletha> How far ahead do you plan the recipes that will appear in the magazines?

<Tara_MSL> Aletha, we work a year in advance for holidays and seasonal occasions like summer, Christmas, Passover, etc.

<Tara_MSL> But generally, we are working three months ahead so it can get printed and finalized.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Tara, do you have a preference for either Swiss meringue or Italian meringue buttercreams?

<Tara_MSL> I prefer Swiss meringue only because I find it easier to make. With Italian meringue, I need to get my candy thermometer out and make a sugar syrup before adding it to the egg whites. With Swiss meringue I can dissolve my sugar in the egg whites over a double boiler and I find that more convenient.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Me too. With Swiss meringue you don’t need to worry about any sugar bits.

<aletha> What are your favorite things to make for family and friends at the holidays?

<Tara_MSL> Aletha, I am not good at picking favorites!

<Tara_MSL> But I love a good fancy holiday dinner with a cold salad (always including pomagranite seeds).

<Tara_MSL> A good butternut squash soup, I like to add a few apples to mine.

<Tara_MSL> A simple roasted turkey or stuffed pork tenderloin, with kale and bacon on the side and caramelized cipollini onions.

<Tara_MSL> Dessert is always an array of pies.

<Bkjbcts> Hi. I have two questions. Can you please give us the weight measurements of some dry ingredients? What should a cup of sugar weigh? And what should a cup of flour weigh?

<Tara_MSL> Bkjbcts, I don’t have those measurements off-hand but there are many sites online and in good baking reference books that will have them.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Bkjbcts, you can find weight equivalents for many common baking ingredients such as sugar and flour in the Look It Up section of PastryScoop.com.

<Bkjbcts> And what can I do to make a big cake (12 inch by 3 inch) not fall in the middle?

<Tara_MSL> Try cooking the cake at a lower temperature; maybe 25 degrees lower. This will allow the center to cook a little more before the edges get too dark.

<peachy> I live in a tropical country and for me to make a pretty pie is hard because the dough does not hold its shape and also the convection oven deforms my pie. Is it necessary to bake it in a nonconventional oven?

<Tara_MSL> You should be able to use any oven.

<Tara_MSL> Pie crust is tricky, but once you get the right process down it can be fun.

<Tara_MSL> Try using a different fat in the dough, butter vs. shortening, or my favorite is to mix both. Butter give the great flavor and shortening adds to the flakiness.

<Tara_MSL> Also, freeze your formed pie crust before baking, and make sure to start it at a high temperature, such as 425ºF degrees. That way, it won’t melt before it bakes.

<peachy> For how many minutes should I bake my pie at 425ºF? Then for how many more minutes should I bake it at the lower temperature?

<Tara_MSL> Peachy, most recipes call for baking the pie for 10 to 15 minutes at the higher temperature and then lowering it to 350ºF degrees until the juices start to bubble and the crust is nice and golden.

<peachy> What is a good pie crust recipe?

<Tara_MSL> Martha Stewart’s web site has some great apple pie recipes.

<peachy> How can I make sure my bottom crust is well done in a pie?

<Tara_MSL> Make sure to lower your oven rack to the lower third of the oven instead of keeping it in the middle where most people do their cooking.

<Tara_MSL> This will allow the bottom of the pie to cook through while the heat in the oven cooks the top.

Tara_MSL> Peachy, I like to freeze my whole pie before I bake it. And like we talked about. . . bake without the convection fan if you want to assure the shape of the crust.

<peachy> Thanks a lot Tara!

<Deirdre> What do you think about parbaking bottom crusts?

<Tara_MSL> Deirdre, it depends on what kind of pie I am making, but parbaking is a great solution.

<Tara_MSL> I parbake for my pumpkin and custard pies just a little. But for fruit pies, I just make sure I have my oven rack low.

<peachy> Should you prick your bottom crust with a toothpick or fork?

<Tara_MSL> Peachy, fork or toothpick, both are great. I find the fork does the job much faster! Don’t dock (prick with a fork) your fruit pie crusts. You want them sealed so the fruit juices don’t make it soggy.

<Tara_MSL> In fact, I like to brush the bottom of my fruit pie crusts with egg white before I put the fruit in. The egg white seals the crust just slightly so it doesn’t absorb all the fruit juices.

<Tara_MSL> Always remember to cover parts of the crust with foil if they are getting too dark before the pie is done. That’s an easy step that assures no burned edges.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> I like to use nonstick foil when baking. It works the same and you don’t have to worry about pieces of your crust pulling off when you remove the foil.

<Tara_MSL> Judiaann, that will help a lot.

<Cegsway> I can’t seem to find the right type and ratio of apples to create a pie that won’t end up with too much air and/or too much liquid. What types and ratios do you recommend?

<Tara_MSL> I mentioned earlier a few of my favorite baking apples, I’ll run through them again . . . Cortland, McIntosh, Yellow Transplant, and often Granny Smith.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Cegsway, I’ve had good luck using a recipe which calls for 7 medium apples or 8 smaller apples and 3 tablespoons of flour.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Also, with apple pies, I like to bake them the day before I serve them and that allows the juices to set up so that the pie is not too runny.

<Cegsway> Do you always mix apple types?

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Personally, I like a mix of two different apples for pie. I pick one that is slightly more tart and slightly firmer than the other which is a little sweeter and a little softer in texture.

<Tara_MSL> I don’t always mix apple types, but I do like to. I find it adds a good dimension of flavors and textures.

<Mary> Many recopies call for unsalted butter. If I don’t have it on hand, what can I do?

<Tara_MSL> Feel free to use salted butter if you have it on hand. Just cut back on the salt in the recipe.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Mary, I prefer unsalted butter in general because it tends to be fresher. Salted butter has a longer shelf life so it’s likely that it’s not as fresh tasting as the unsalted. If you enjoy baking, it might be worth the effort to keep a few sticks frozen in the freezer for when you need it.

<Tara_MSL> Oh Judiaann, thanks for that explanation.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Salted butter does taste delicious on a warm piece of bread.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> I find that I enjoy baking the most when I keep a well-stocked baking pantry. This way, if the inspiration hits, viola! I can make just about anything without running out to the supermarket.

<aletha> I keep my flour in the freezer, should I let it warm up before using it? Allow it come to room temperature or can I use it right from the freezer?

<Tara_MSL> Actually, for most baking, cold flour would be good.

<Tara_MSL> It won’t melt the butter when you add it to the pastry crust!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> In cases where the flour is to be proofed (like w/bread) you may want to let the flour come to room temperature; but in the case of chilled dough, such as biscuits and pie dough, you can use the flour as is right out of the freezer.

<aletha> Vanilla. What kind is the best to use in cookie or cake recipes?

<Tara_MSL> My favorite is a Madagascar vanilla.

<Sami> Is their any advantage to baking with superfine sugar?

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> If a recipe does not call for superfine, you should stick with regular granulated.

<Deirdre> What is the difference between cream vs. evaporated milk in pumpkin pie?

<Tara_MSL> Deirdre, the most general difference is flavor.

<Tara_MSL> Evaporated milk adds a slightly caramelized flavor. If you don’t want it to overpower the other flavors, use cream instead.

<Deirdre> Thanks.

<Laura> I’m having trouble making a substitution. I want to use whole wheat flour instead of unbleached all-purpose. The 1 to 1 is not working. What do you suggest an appropriate ratio substitution would be?

<Tara_MSL> Laura, there is not an exact ratio for that substitution. You should use less whole wheat flour though. It has more gluten and will make what you are preparing more firm and stiff, so just cut down

<Tara_MSL> Depending on how much you’re using, cut back maybe 1/2 cup or so

<Laura> Thanks!!

<aletha> When making chocolate truffles, what chocolate do you suggest for the base? Which one is the creamiest and has the punch for a chocolate lover?

<Tara_MSL> Our kitchen taste tests come out with Valrhona on the top of our lists.

<Tara_MSL> Valrhona semisweet or bittersweet chocolate has a slightly fruity but very chocolaty taste. It also bakes well and I love it for truffles.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Valhrona Extra Bitter is my all-time favorite chocolate for desserts. I just love the flavor.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Tara, which do you prefer: egg whites or meringue powder for royal icing? Does one set up faster and stronger than the other in your experience?

<Tara_MSL > Judiaann, I really like meringue powder over powdered egg whites. I find I can control the consistency of my royal icing by adding or decreasing the water addition. It’s also more food-safe than raw egg whites.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> I always recommend meringue powder to people but they complain about the added expense. But I’ve always felt that it was worth it—for safety and firmness (for decorating).

<Tara_MSL> Judiaann, yes, it can be an added expense, however you can get powdered egg whites in your baking isle now, and they aren’t too expensive.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> That’s true, and a very good suggestion.

<Tara_MSL > Royal icing needs to be different consistencies depending on what you are using it for. For flooding the top of the cookies with a smooth layer you need it slightly thicker than honey. But for piping decorations I like my royal icing to be stiff.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> The decorated sugar cookies in your magazine are always so pretty.

<aletha>Yes, I agree on that; they are pretty.

<Tara_MS> The decorated cookies are definitely fun to work on as well. I’ve done a few, but we have a few editors here that I still watch over their shoulders. They make the most beautiful cookies.

<peachy> What can I do to make my royal icing stiff to hold its shape but not to be so hard I can hardly pipe it?

<Tara_MSL> Peachy, there is a fine line between stiff and too stiff! I find that as well!

<Tara_MSL> Get it to the consistency where it will hold its shape (just stiff) and then try putting less in the piping bag.

<Tara_MSL> You will have more control and it won’t take as much effort to pipe.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> When piping, it helps to hold the bag correctly too. Fill, push the icing down towards the tip end, twist bag tightly, and squeeze with one hand over the twisted part and hold with the bag with the other hand (closer to the tip end) to guide the motion.

<Deirdre> Wondering about quince and how to get that beautiful ruby color.

<Tara_MSL> Deirdre, are you talking about quince jelly?

<Deirdre> No, just about poaching in a syrup.

<Tara_MSL> Deirdre, that is always a tricky thing with poaching. One to one sugar syrups, or even two to one with extra sugar makes a sweeter result but the color and texture are perfect. I use a 1 to 1 ratio of syrup and I get a nice color. Usually 2 cups of sugar to 2 cups water. I hope you find success.

<Deirdre> I don’t always want them so infused with sugar so I try to use less.

<Tara_MSL> Try adding a little acid, lemon juice or vinegar to your syrup. I hope that will help with the taste.

<Deirdre> I know sugar is the key and time, but it still seems to vary.

<gracie> Ahhhh.... my dad (age 78) has been reminiscing about quince. Thanks.

<aletha> Can you keep nuts in the freezer? I would like to buy some when they are on sale, but will they loose their flavor?

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Nuts keep well in the freezer. Just make sure they are very well wrapped to keep out moisture and freezer burn.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Always toast your nuts until they’re fragrant, then cool, before using. You’ll see that toasting them really brings out their flavor and crunch.

<aletha> Oh thanks on the toasting; will jot that down.

<gracie> I have an old family recipe for cut-out cookies. The directions call for a pound of butter and it says to beat the butter for AN HOUR!!! The recipe is over 75 years old, so I am wondering if it is really necessary to beat it for an hour. Any thoughts?

<Tara_MSL> Gracie, that’s great! I would imagine it was because they were beating it by hand. That’s just a guess.

<Tara_MSL> You just need to beat the butter (in a mixer!) until it is light and smooth. On high or medium speed, this should take 4 or 5 minutes. These cookies must use the air in the beated butter as help with the leavening, so don’t skimp on this step.

<gracie> Oh, is that why recipes always say to beat butter until it is creamy, because it helps with the leavening?

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Gracie, Yes. The beating incorporates a little air in the mix.

<Tara_MSL> Gracie, there are many different ways to leaven baked goods. Yeast, baking powder, baking soda, and eggs, are the most common. However, beating the butter or creaming the butter and sugars together is an important part of recipes.

<Tara_MSL> Like Judiaann said, this incorporates air into the ingredients, and that air will leaven (or lift) the product as it bakes.

<gracie> These cookies come out pretty thin and crispy, and have brandy in them, so the flavor is soooo good.

<aletha> How long should you keep you bowl and beaters in the freezer for doing whipping cream?

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> To whip cream, it helps to have a chilled bowl. In the freezer, that’s pretty fast. Maybe 3 minutes? A metal bowl in a freezer will chill fast.

<Tara_MSL> Yes, not too long. You don’t want it to freeze your cream!

<aletha> Yeast. There are so many out there and sometimes they will proof for bread and sometimes not, yet the date on the package says it is still good. Does weather have something to do with that?

<Tara_MSL> It shouldn’t have too much to do with the weather. But if it is too cold, it may not have enough warmth to work. Put it in a warm place to rise.

<Tara_MSL> Aletha, that is why I like to “grow” yeast before I put it in my recipe.

<Tara_MSL> I let it sit in warm water with a dash of sugar for food, and I can see it foam and grow in about 5 to 10 minutes. If that doesn’t happen, I try a different packet.

<aletha> Have you ever tried fresh herbs in cookies?

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> I believe MSL has several cracker recipes using fresh herbs.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Tara mentioned in her “Baking for Gift Giving” workshop that homemade crackers with a bottle of wine make for a great hostess gift. I agree. They’re no more difficult to make than cookies and people get a real kick out of them.

<Tara_MSL> Yes, look for recipes online.

<Deirdre> I’ve used lavender, rosemary, and mint in shortbread. Delicious.

<Tara_MSL> In fact, look for our January Living issue coming out soon. There is a fabulous recipe for cornmeal thyme cookie.

<Deirdre> Cornmeal thyme. Yum. Great idea.

<Deirdre> I always rub the sugar with the herbs first.

<Tara_MSL> Deirdre, that is a great tip.

<Tara_MSL> It’s also good to do that just for flavored sugars, for tea or sprinkling on top of things.

<Tara_MSL> Buttered toast perhaps?!

<Tara_MSL> And you can make the crackers any shape and flavor. Try using your favorite cookie cutter for crackers.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> That’s a great idea!

<Deirdre> Have you ever used a pasta maker to make crackers really thin?

<Tara_MSL> It definitely depends on the cracker dough.

<Tara_MSL> Just make sure it’s a sturdy dough with no nuts or ingredients that would get crushed in the pasta machine.

<Deirdre> Yes, true.

<Deirdre> What’s the best way to assure seeds stay on crackers?

<Tara_MSL> Deirdre, brush the top of the cracker with a little water just before you sprinkle on the seeds. Or brush with egg white mixed with a little water to make a shiny, beautiful top.

<Kate_PastryScoop> We’re getting to the end of our chat. Any last questions?

<gracie> Tara. . .Thanks a LOT.

<aletha> Thank you for answering our questions. Too short of a session. . . .

<Kate_PastryScoop> Tara, it’s been so much fun chatting today and I think we’ve all learned a lot. Thank you!

<Tara_MSL> It was a pleasure to chat with all of you and I wish you great holiday baking and a happy new year.

<peachy> Thanks Tara.

<Linz> We love Tara!

<Mary> Fabulous, Tara.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Thank you Tara for chatting with us today! So many great tips and so many great ideas. Thank you all for joining us. A transcript of this chat (along with others from our Holiday Baking series) will be posted on our site in the next few weeks.

<Raina_PastryScoop> Thanks, Tara. You gave us a lot of really good info!

<pretty> Thanks Tara, you are the best.

<Tara_MSL> Thank you! Thank you! It was great fun.

<peachy> Please Tara, come back soon Tara.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> We’re big Tara fans here at PastryScoop!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Happy Holidays everyone and Happy Baking!

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