PastryScoop 2005 4-Star Chef Chat Transcript

Michael Laiskonis of Le Bernardin
Wednesday, December 16, 2005

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Hello, Everyone! Thank you for joining us today. I'm delighted to introduce to you the first chef in our 4-Star Chef Chat series. Please welcome the executive pastry chef of Le Bernardin, MICHAEL LAISKONIS!

<michaellaiskonis> Thank you so much. It is a pleasure to be here with you!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Please feel free to ask your questions. Don't be shy.

<ryann33> Chef, I am currently working the front of the house at Tribute and was wondering how you're enjoying NY.

<michaellaiskonis> New York is amazing. Tribute, for those of you who might not know, is a restaurant in suburban Detroit, my old stomping grounds!

<Linda> Hello, Chef Michael. My question to you is about chocolate bloom. How can I avoid this when tempering chocolate in my home kitchen? I never had this problem while in culinary school.

<michaellaiskonis> Chocolate bloom is the result of hitting the wrong temperatures, or simply when perfectly tempered chocolate warms up and then recrystallizes. Patience and perseverance are always crucial when working with chocolate!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Are you storing your chocolate in a dry environment?

<Linda> I keep my chocolate in a pantry cupboard in the kitchen. Should I keep it in air-tight containers?

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> My cupboard above my stove is a moisture magnet so I don't store any food items there.

<michaellaiskonis> And don't forget that the cupboard above the stove probably gets quite warm.

<Linda> My kitchen pantry is next to my double ovens. Perhaps I'll move some things from there to another pantry in the next room.

<irma> Do you have a basement? I keep mine in the basement where it is much cooler and it works.

<Linda> No basement. But I have a laundry/utility room with cupboards that is a cooler place.

<michaellaiskonis> Don't worry. Most restaurant kitchens aren't very kind to chocolate storage either!

<Linda> If my current chocolate supply has absorbed moisture, is it ruined? Is there any way to reverse this?

<michaellaiskonis> That is tricky. Some things can be rescued, some can't. Trial and error will give you the experience to know your chocolate just by sight.

<Deb> Hello, Chef. I am curious to know if you have any guiding principles when it comes to constructing desserts. I'm especially interested in flavor/texture and how you think about those and how do you experiment with new or unique combinations?

<jeanne> To follow Deb's question, where does your inspiration come from? How many times do you "construct" something (three, four, ten?) before you're satisfied with it?

<michaellaiskonis> I look at it almost like an architectural problem.

<michaellaiskonis> Trial and error sometimes is the case, and sometimes I hit a perfect idea on the first try!

<Deb> As an architectural problem, do you start with flavor or form? What do you consider to be a solid foundation?

<michaellaiskonis> Both flavor and form. Layering of textures and flavors primarily. Actual presentation usually comes later.

<michael> Chef, in your opinion, what's the perfect clear glaze recipe for fresh fruit tarts other than strained preserves? There are recipes out there suggesting the addition of corn starch.

<michaellaiskonis> I like to use a glaze made up of pectin. That's something you can either make on your own, or it's the same product that many pastry chefs simply buy.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> What's your favorite part of the day?

<michaellaiskonis> 6pm on a Friday or Saturday night. I love the calm before the storm!

<jeanne> Passion fruit is my most favorite flavor. I sometimes feel as if I'm on a mission to introduce it to my customers (I have a bake shop). Can you tell us how you enrobe the passion fruit cream in white chocolate? Do you pipe it? Freeze it in silicone molds?

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Passion fruit... yum.

<michaellaiskonis> The "enrobing" on this particular passion fruit dish is simply sprayed white chocolate and cocoa butter. More poetic don't you think!

<jeanne> Much more poetic, I agree! That would be fun to do on top of a passion fruit curd tart! I can call it "snow!" :)

<FCI_JockGrundy>Hi, Chef. Do you have any plans to go back to the James Beard Foundation any time soon to host a dinner?

<michaellaiskonis> I will be doing a Valentine's Day Tea in February. The menu is being written as we speak.

<FCI_JockGrundy> Great! I'll look into that for sure.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Michael: Why are pastry chefs always so slim? How do you keep that figure with all that sugar around you?

<Raina_PastryScoop> I did not find working in a pastry kitchen to be a slimming experience for me!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Ha ha.

<michaellaiskonis> I keep my figure, I guess, by working 12 hours a day!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> You know, you burn a lot of calories when you stand all day. But then again, what are we talking about calories for? We're DESSERT EATERS! Bring on the calories!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Michael: How many people are on your staff?

<michaellaiskonis> For the busy season I have 7 assistants.

<Deb> Chef, what advice would you give to a pastry student on her first day trailing?

<michaellaiskonis> Keep your ears and eyes open and soak up everything they are willing to show you!

<Leslie> I have a croquembouche question. They take so long to make, and I can't seem to keep the sugar at the right temperature long enough. It always gets too dark before I'm done and I end up making one or two more batches of caramel. Any suggestions?

<michaellaiskonis> Croquembouches are not my forte. A good trick is to cook the sugar and then transfer to glass bowls that you can reheat in the microwave.

<Linda> I made a large croquembouche for my final showpiece in culinary school. I too had to reheat the sugar about three times in order to finish. The results were worth it though. But I know what you mean about it turning dark.

<FCI_JockGrundy> Michael, how about any plans to open your own pastry shop? Do you think you would enjoy that more or less that your current position?

<michaellaiskonis> I have way too many irons in the fire to think that far into the future. But I'll admit to keeping an eye on what is happening in the retail pastry world!

<Raina_PastryScoop> Is it true that the kitchens in NYC are more intense? I would imagine Tribute or any high end place would have the same vibe, but people always say NYC kitchens are different.

<michaellaiskonis> I've tried to create an intense environment wherever I am! It feeds creativity!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Before I forget, CONGRATULATIONS on receiving three stars from the Michelin Guide! That's fantastic! We're all so proud.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> FYI: Only four NYC restaurants received the top stars by the guide, and we're lucky enough to have three of those pastry chefs on this chat series.

<michaellaiskonis> Three stars is indeed very much an honor. I still don't actually believe it!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Bravo!!! We're really happy for you. It's very much well deserved.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> What one word best describes your personality in the kitchen?

<ryann33> Chef, what traits or characteristics do you look for when searching for new employees?

<michaellaiskonis> To answer both Judiaann and Ryan, calm and collected!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> That's two words, Michael!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Making great desserts take time and patience so that makes sense.

<Linda> Do you watch the Food Network chef celebrities? If so, do you have a favorite?

<michaellaiskonis> I do watch Food Network every once and a while. I think it has done a lot for the general appreciation of food. Everything from Emeril to Iron Chef!

<Max> Hi, Michael. It is a pleasure to meet you. My name is Max Santiago. I am the executive pastry chef of Norman Van Aken.

<Raina_PastryScoop> Hi, Max. Welcome

<michaellaiskonis> Hey, Max. I love Norman!

<Max> Good to hear.

<jeanne> How often does the menu change? Do you have guidelines about what you want on it (e.g., crunchy, chocolate, fruit, or pairings with specific products such as wine)?

<michaellaiskonis> Menu changes come more with inspiration than set timelines. If I could, I would do something new everyday!

<michaellaiskonis> There is always something new to try or in season to plug into the equation. I try to consider each new addition from all aspects.

<FCI_JockGrundy> Chef, I was just in Vegas for vacation and WOW the pastry chefs out there are amazing too! Jean-Philippe Maury has a new pastry shop in the Bellagio and I had a great dinner and dessert at Bradley Ogden at Caesars Palace too! Bradley's son is the pastry chef.

<Max> A young star named Ralph is the pastry chef.

<Max> Bradley's son is the sous chef.

<FCI_JockGrundy> Oops... he was in the pastry kitchen when I met him!

<michaellaiskonis> I've yet to see Vegas. Perhaps outside of NYC, it is the most happening pastry city in the country indeed.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> You've never been to Vegas? For fun?

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> For Elvis?

<michaellaiskonis> Judiaann, nope, never been!

<FCI_JockGrundy> There are enough great restaurants and shows in Vegas now you don't have to even think about gambling!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Okay, pack your bags. Let's go! Sin City is waiting.

<Linda> Michael and Max: How did you get your first start in the pastry field?

<Max> I started in the military.

<michaellaiskonis> Like a lot of people, I fell into the business, caught the bug and never looked back!

<Beth> Hello. Could you possibly tell me where I can find a ratio chart for agave syrup to sugar? Is it true agave syrup can be used for diabetics?

<michaellaiskonis> I've never used nor tasted agave syrup. Sorry!

<mack> Beth, did you ever hear of yacon syrup? It's a sweetener that's safe and even therapeutic for diabetics. It comes from Peru.

<Beth> No, I haven't. I'll have to look for it... trying to develop diabetic recipes.

<mack> Beth, if you can't get it anywhere else you can buy online from www.ecoandino.com in Peru.

<Beth> Thank you very much. I’ll look for it there.

<jeanne> When you do get to go out, what do you choose for dessert?

<michaellaiskonis> I'll eat anything!

<Baker1> Chef, I’m a passionate amateur and was wondering what you consider the top five most important kitchen tools you use, and do those tools translate to the home chef?

<michaellaiskonis> Without being cheeky, your five senses are probably your best tools!

<Linda> Are you also a bread baker, Chef Michael?

<michaellaiskonis> Linda, I started out doing bread. The zen-ness and science behind it got me passionate about pastry.

<Linda> Are you a proponent of fresh yeast or dry yeast, Chef?

<michaellaiskonis> I like fresh yeast for breads. I do little of that now so I use dry.

<Raina_PastryScoop> Have you recently discovered any new products that are interesting?

<michaellaiskonis> Like a lot of chefs I'm interested in some of the more 'high tech' ingredients.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> We have Gary Tucker from Food Arts magazine here.

<GaryatFoodArts> Who knows what a "rooibos" is? Is it American for foreign?

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Rooibos as in the tea?

<GaryatFoodArts> Rooibos as in the raspberry rooibos cake by Rebecca Michaels from Flying Monkey Patisserie in Philadelphia. I am fact-checking our Accolades story for the Jan/Feb issue, and she won Best Bakery Recipe for PastryScoop.com's Golden Scoop Awards.

<Raina_PastryScoop> Rooibos is a tea from Africa.

<Beth> Delicious tea! It helps control hot flashes...speaking from experience here :o)

<Beth> Rooibos is a red leafed herb grown on a bush in Africa, used for tea, et al.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Gary! Are you fact-checking in the middle of our chat?!

<FCI_JockGrundy> Once an editor always an editor!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Always working that Gary! I miss you!!!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> And I miss your vanilla pound cake.

<GaryatFoodArts> Yes, Judiaann, I miss you too. Come visit (bring food).

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Gary and I used to have neighboring cubicles and he always brought in the most delicious desserts.

<michaellaiskonis> Gary, I'm intrigued by this tea dessert you mention.

<GaryatFoodArts> Judiaann can tell you all about it.

<kat> My cousin is Johnny Iuzzini. You guys all are fabulous.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> JOHNNNNNNYYYY! Johnny is fabulous.

<FCI_JockGrundy> Johnny sometimes hides out in the PastryScoop chats!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> It must be interesting to have that guy as your cousin.

<kat> He always makes something delicious for all the holidays.

<FCI_JockGrundy> Chef, did you stop by the Chocolate Show last weekend? I was out of town and missed it this year.

<michaellaiskonis> I sadly missed the Chocolate Show this year. Too busy!

<kevinod> Michael: I'm going to La Bernardin Monday, November 21st for an anniversary dinner with my wife. What should we order for dessert?

<michaellaiskonis> Why not everything?!

<Max> Can you share a new trend in the pastry world in NYC?

<michaellaiskonis> I think pastry chefs here and everywhere are picking up the importance and quality of their ingredients like never before, sourcing things from all over the world as well as from greenmarkets.

<Max> Yes, that's how I keep my menu evolving.

<lemon> Hello! Just moved to Vegas from New York. I miss the greenmarket so much! There are so many ideas in there.

<FCI_JockGrundy> I was just in Vegas and found an interesting Asian food store just past the Stratosphere. They may have some interesting things for you there.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> The Stratosphere! I've been there.

<lemon> Oh, thanks because I’m really running out of hope here!!!

<FCI_JockGrundy> You would think being so close to California it would be easy?

<lemon> Nope, there's nothing like New York, where you really smell the product.

<michaellaiskonis> New York is the ultimate grocery store!

<lemon> It is, Chef. Anything you want is there.

<michaellaiskonis> Asian food stores are my favorite. Especially the junk food!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> I love Asian junk food. They do nice crunchy snacks.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> ...like octopus crackers, sweet potato chips, squid twists...

FCI_JockGrundy> Judiaann, yes and shrimp chips, too!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> I like shrimp chips, too—the SPICY ones!

<Beth> Judiaann, those would never go over here in Montana. ;o)

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> No? No octopus cracker lovers out there?

<Beth> Hahaha, no. But I am slowly introducing things folks take for granted in the rest of the U.S.

<Linda> CUPCAKES seem to be the new trendy thing in desserts. Have you applied your talents to those, Michael?

<michaellaiskonis> I'm hard at work finding the next "cupcake." Wink wink.

<Raina_PastryScoop> Ha. "Cupcake" of intrigue.

<mack> Do you have any ideas for gluten-free deserts, besides meringue and sorbet?

<michaellaiskonis> I played around a bit with different grains years ago, but haven't revisited it in a while.

<Max> I'm really into microgreens.

<michaellaiskonis> Perfect example. And I bet you are using more "savory" herbs as well, right?

<Max> Have you tried making puffed fruit like Rice Krispies?

<Beth> That sounds interesting.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> The French love putting Rice Krispies in desserts, I've noticed.

<GaryatFoodArts> The French are totally in love with American candy bars like Snickers, Mars Bars, Heath, etc.

<Raina_PastryScoop> But Euro candy bars are so much tastier!

<FCI_JockGrundy> Gary... NO! Say it isn't so!

<Linda> We take all of those for granted!

<GaryatFoodArts> Yes, Euro candy bars are the best. I got some Bounty candy bars in London for a coworker.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> LOVE love LOVE Bountry bars. Someone out there please send me some!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> You see... pastry people are food people too. We appreciate all kinds of food.

<michaellaiskonis> When people ask about the differences between savory food and pastry, I say, "it's all just food."

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Good answer, Michael!

<FCI_JockGrundy> It's all good! It's all food!

<michaellaiskonis> Gary, a few years ago I started seeing brownies and the like in Paris as well!

<lemon> I work for a French chef. They are really trying to reach their U.S. market but still having a hard time.

<Max> Well, I have to get to work. Thank you very much, Michael. If you ever want to chat or need anything you can reach me by email.

<michaellaiskonis> Your location and clientele certainly affect the choices you make as chef.

<Beth> Doesn't it, though!

<FCI_JockGrundy> Yes, you have to keep the masses happy.

<jeanne> That's the real challenge—finding what your customers are willing to buy. Something that doesn't sound so unusual but still different enough that they're willing to try it. Like when I tried to mix goat cheese and raspberry puree for a cake layer, everyone loved how it sounded, but no one wanted to actually order it...

<Beth> I finally found folks brave enough to try baklava!!!

<Beth> I tried smothering it in milk chocolate & it is a BIG hit!!!!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Smother anything in chocolate and they come running.

<lemon> Very true!!!

<Beth> Hahaha.

<michaellaiskonis> Re: baklava. Another "trend" is embracing dessert traditions from around the world. I'm particularly fascinated with India.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Do you dare say your favorite restaurant in NYC?

<michaellaiskonis> Favorite restaurant... Maybe surprising, but I almost see wd~50 as my kind of "comfort food."

Raina_PastryScoop> You are the only one who would say that! Haha.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Those cats at wd~50 are so talented!

<FCI_JockGrundy> Chef, I love wd~50 too, both Sam Mason and Wylie Dufresne.

<michaellaiskonis> Don't forget Dewey, Wylie's dad. Makes you feel like he's your dad. In a good way, of course!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> I think it's important to have a restaurant like that out there where chefs are encouraged to be super creative.

<funktank21> Where else?

<michaellaiskonis> I'd love to get to Masa. I really enjoyed the sushi at Geisha recently.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> I want to go to Masa. I need someone to pay for that dinner, though.

<FCI_JockGrundy> I have tried Masa. Masa himself served us all night at the sushi bar. Worth every penny!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> So when are we going, Jock?

<FCI_JockGrundy> After the Lotto!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> That's what they all say...

<Raina_PastryScoop> Jock, do you have a sugar mommy we don't know about?

<FCI_JockGrundy> Ha! We don't have kids, so Masa is cheap if you look at it that way.

<ryann33> Have you tried per se?

<FCI_JockGrundy> Have not tried per se yet...

<michaellaiskonis> Sébastien's desserts at per se is at the top of my list of things to try!

<irma> Chef Michael, what do you think of this new trend of using non traditional dessert ingredients? I've heard of a chef using bacon in his truffles?

<michaellaiskonis> I used to do a sweet/savory cheese course using bacon and it worked amazingly well. Restraint is the key.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Yes, I've been seeing bacon all over dessert menus lately. Who knew pork could do such wonders on a dessert plate?

<lemon> Yeah, before I left New York they were also using pork cracklings with white chocolate.

<Linda> Bacon does not sound appealing to me in a dessert. Am I in the minority?

<Beth> No.

<irma> Linda, I am with you about bacon although I am willing to try the bacon truffles.

<Linda> I would probably try any truffle!!

<Beth> Me too. Have to at least try it.

<Raina_PastryScoop> I’m curious about the bacon thing. I imagine it's very subtle.

<Linda> Hope so!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> A little bacon goes a long way.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> I had a nice bacon tuile a few weeks ago and it went nicely with the apple dessert.

<Beth> Oh, that sounds good.

<Linda> Yes, that would compliment an apple dessert.

<michaellaiskonis> Don't forget how we all love salt with chocolate now. Bacon isn't too far off, I guess!

<FCI_JockGrundy> True. Maybe you should try anchovies in place of bacon!

<irma> Anchovy truffles. Yum!!!

<Linda> No way!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Anchovy truffles? Wait one second.

<michaellaiskonis> Ok, anchovies... I have to try it before I state an opinion!

<Raina_PastryScoop> The anchovy thing I find harder to swallow than bacon.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Michael: Do they have nice family meals at Le Bernardin?

<michaellaiskonis> Chef Ripert places a big importance on our staff getting to relax and eat well every shift!

<Norma1> I'm guessing you are of Greek heritage—do you make pasta fleura?

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> I make pasta fleura! I'm not Greek. Okay, I'm half Greek.

<michaellaiskonis> Norma, the name is actually Lithuanian. And yes, I have an interest in going back and exploring the traditions of Eastern Europe, too.

<GaryatFoodArts> Why can't you get just a regular normal chocolate cake with chocolate icing any more in restaurants. None of the moussey things but regular cake.

<Raina_PastryScoop> Chocolate cake is the best!

<irma> What's wrong with "moussey things" on chocolate? I think they're better than regular frosting.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Gary: I'm feeling your pain.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Not buttercream or “moussey” things as Gary likes to say but plain ol' fashioned frosting.

<michaellaiskonis> Gary, Arianne has already put that challenge to us pastry chefs! I can't say I disagree!

<michaellaiskonis> Tradition well tempered by inventiveness... We do need both, I think. As long as good sense and taste are used.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> I love a traditional chocolate cake with "normal" icing, but they're getting harder and harder to find these days.

<Linda> What would you say is "normal" icing?

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Frosting?

<Linda> Butter frosting?

<Raina_PastryScoop> I had a chocolate cupcake at Cafe Boulud several months ago that was great, very traditional but very tasty.

<Raina_PastryScoop> So, Michael, what would be your approach for chocolate cake?

<michaellaiskonis> I like twisting the traditional ever so slightly to both pull at the nostalgia while at the same time offering something new.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Gary, I'll make you a cake that would make your momma proud.

<GaryatFoodArts> Boy, Judiaann, I can hardly wait.

<Linda> Will you share with us, Judiaann?

<kevinod> Now I'm really hungry.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> It takes someone who loves something to make it properly, I think.

<mack> Any way of making a soufflé without flour, Chef?

<michaellaiskonis> Your base could use cornstarch instead of flour.

<mack> Thanks, Chef, because I just found out that's okay for celiacs!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Well, unfortunately our time is running out.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> I'd like to thank you all for joining us today!

<michaellaiskonis> Thanks so much for having me. That was the fastest hour I've ever spent!

<jeanne> Thank you, Chef, for taking the time today; I've enjoyed it. See you on eGullet perhaps and wishing you continued success in the future!

<michaellaiskonis> I love eGullet, just haven't as much time to participate like I used to. A food lover's paradise!

<Linda> Thanks for your time, Chef Michael!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> THANK YOU Chef Michael for taking time out of your hectic schedule to chat with us!

<Norma1> So great of you to share with us. Thanks.

<FCI_JockGrundy> Yes thanks, Chef Michael. You were great!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Please make sure to join us in two weeks when we chat with Johnny Iuzzini from Jean Georges on November 30th. Same time.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> And be sure to look for these chat transcripts online at PastryScoop.com.

<Beth> Thank you, I appreciate all the wonderful input!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Have a great day! Keep eating those 4-star desserts!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> And octopus chips!

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