PastryScoop 2005 4-Star Chef Chat Transcript

Johnny Iuzzini of Jean Georges
November 30, 2005

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Hi, everyone. Allow me to officially welcome you all to today's chat with JOHNNY IUZZINI, executive pastry chef of one of NYC's finest restaurants—Jean Georges. Welcome Chef Johnny!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Feel free to ask your questions. Don't be shy.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Hello, I'm Johnny Cash. I mean Iuzzini.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Someone ask me something.

<Pants> I got one for you.

<Pants> I've been commissioned to do a clown cake for a client.

<Pants> And I wanted to include some blown sugar balloons.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Cool.

<Pants> Any tips?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Wear gloves.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> No, just be careful. Make them a bit thick if you are going to transport.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Make sure it's not a humid day.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Dry guard, dessicant, or limestone is a must.

<Pants> Thanks.

<eyebtrini> Johnny, I have a question for you. Do you have any advice on improving speed and/or consistency in a pastry kitchen environment?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Practice. The only person who will make you faster and help you to improve is yourself.

<eyebtrini> Will do. At a previous job I was told I wasn't fast enough but was never given any advice on how to improve so it hindered me a bit.

<eyebtrini> Gracias, señor.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Johnny, you have a reputation as being the hardest working pastry chef in town? What do you have to say to that?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Hmm, I am sure everyone works hard. It's easy if you love what you do.

<GaryFoodArts> Congratulations on your Michelin three stars (some credit should go to Jean-Georges, too, I suppose).

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Yes, congratulations on your stars! Well done.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Yeah, JG is the man. 18 restaurants worldwide now.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> I am just a piece in the puzzle.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> I hear Pichet Ong is opening a place.

<Raina_PastryScoop> We heard Pichet is opening a bakery.

<colleen> In pastry school, what was the hardest thing for you to master?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Going to class.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Ha ha.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> I went to pastry school young—too young—graduated at 19.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> I guess sugar work was the hardest.

<GaryFoodArts> My one major question is regarding how in the world you're able to produce such complicated dessert plates, with four elements per dessert, and a lot of it must be à la minute, that is, painstakingly plated at the last minute. Are you at the restaurant at 9 am and still there at midnight? How does that work?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> I work a minimum of 12 hours a day, but I have an amazing crew who work very hard for me, and I couldn’t possibly do it without them.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> I am responsible for three restaurants, JG, Nougatine (same building), and Perry St.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> How many people do you have doing service at Jean Georges?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Jean Georges has one for lunch and two for dinner in service.

<eyebtrini> For the financially challenged people out there who can only afford specialty classes here and there, what are a few things you see that are truly needed in a pastry kitchen?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Passion and ambition.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> I never take classes. I go to demos. They're usually pretty cheap and very informative. PastryScoop does them often.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Yes, we do. In fact, Johnny will be doing a very special demo for us on January 7th. Check back on our site for details a little closer to the date.

<papo> Good. As someone who has worked with Chef Johnny, he is an innovative and fun chef to watch in action.

<Pants> He is… I was lucky enough to see him once at an event.

<papo> Hi, Chef. Paul here. Never got to thank you for your guidance and the opportunity to work with you! So, thanks. ;)

<Pants> How often do you change up the menu at Perry St?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> I have a great sous chef there, and she is starting to take it over a bit.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Johnny, do you have any mentors?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> My mentors are Daniel Boulud, Francois Payard, and Thomas Haas.

<colleen> What do you consider acceptable convenience? How much of a purist are you about doing everything yourself?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> We make everything in house.

<colleen> Well, I mean would you use purées or laminated pastries—that sort of thing—

from a supplier or do you do everything in-house?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Purées, yes; laminated doughs, no.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Johnny, what do you like to do outside of the kitchen? On your days off?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> I have a cabin in the Catskills where I grew up that I fly to as often as possible.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> A city boy in the woods.

<bizzle> Who are your favorite pastry chefs right now?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> I would have to say Sam Mason in NYC, just because he is one of my closest friends and his style is so different from mine. Translation: he rocks, I suck.

<colleen> Do you concept all of your menu items yourself or do you have a team? How do you develop new items?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> I have a concept then encourage my team to get involved.

<bizzle> What is your favorite ingredient to work with?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> I like to work with pork products.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Just kidding.

<Raina_PastryScoop> What, no bacon?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> I love all ingredients. Chocolate is a lot of fun though.

<bizzle> Would you do a dessert with pork in honor of a friend?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Definitely, Bizzle.

<eyebtrini> I've only been in the field since August of 2004, back and forth from sweet to savory jobs. All the pastry I know came from a short stint helping out a chef I know at Osterio del Circo/Le Cirque but I was not ready when I came in, so I opted to pull back and try and better prepare myself before stepping foot in another five diamond. Talk about a lucky first gig.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Pick a chef whose style you connect with and stage with them for free until they have a position for you.

<eyebtrini> I REFUSE to quit on this though because that short time at Circo lit a flame under my a**, ya dig?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Never give up, Eye.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> What is the most challenging aspect of your job?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Constantly going forward.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> I don't really keep anything on the menu from year to year no matter how good it is.

<sara> Why did you want to be a pastry chef?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> I've never done anything else. I got a job washing dishes at a country club to make money to go out with the ladies.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> One thing led to another.

<angelcake> I saw you on Martha Stewart.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> And? How was my hair?

<angelcake> Not bad.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> I think Martha digs you.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> I offered to be her kept-boy, but she wasn't interested.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> She's got her chickens.

<sara> What do you think of using seasonal ingredients in desserts?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Sara, use them as often as possible. It forces you to change your menu more often.

<angelcake> Any ideas for Christmas dessert?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Bûche de Noël, always a favorite at parties.

<sara> I went to Barcelona and worked with one Michelin-starred chef in Spain.

<sara> It was a great experience.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Which one?

<sara> Do you know Ramon Freixa? I was working with him for a month.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> No, was it amazing? I want to do a tour of Spain this summer. Anyone want to join me?

<sara> Very interesting creative cuisine.

<sara> You have to go.

<sara> I can hook you up with the chef. Barcelona is a place to be.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Definitely.

<sara> Madrid is nice, too.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> So much going on there, they are kicking our butts.

<sara> I like Andria Ferran.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Ferran Adria.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Albert Adria is the pastry chef and Ferran's brother—a genius.

<sara> Do you know anything about how they make the liquid into solid, like for mango ravioli and coconut ravioli?

<sara> Hard outside but liquid inside?

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> The liquid in the ravioli probably has a gelatin base.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Sara, yeah, they rock.

<eyebtrini> I see two stage locale options but don’t know how they differ in cost of living: Vegas or NYC.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Go and work at each for a day then make up your mind.

<sara> I just finished working with a French chef.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Which one, Sara?

<sara> Very old guy, Daniel Cambon.

<sara> Do you know him?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Nope, nice guy?

<sara> Nice, but old.

<sara> Very traditional old cuisine.

<sara> But yummy food.

<graffdogg> Johnny, when are you coming to eat by us?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> > Where are you, G-dog?

<graffdogg> Bistro du Vent.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> G-dog, very scandalous. Didn’t I see you on a video tape on the web?

<graffdogg> Ha. Laurent took over now.

<sofi> Do you do wedding cakes?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Yes, I do wedding cakes on the side, Sofi.

<sofi> Do you have any tips or resources that can help me in pricing wedding cakes?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> It all depends on ingredients used and labor time.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Compare your recipe to other recipes and see where the major differences are and then adjust.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Johnny, what's your favorite time of the day?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Quitting time!!!!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> So you like to work hard then play hard?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> That’s the only way, judi ju.

<eyebtrini> Johnny, know any good pastry oriented books or ice cream books?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Go to Kitchen Arts and Letters, ask for Matt, and tell them I sent you. They rock!!!

<angelcake> Making my Xmas list, so please list five things a pastry chef must have.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> > Judiaann. help me with that list.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Angelcake: check out our PastryScoop Holiday Gift Guide on our site for some clever and fun ideas.

<Raina_PastryScoop> Do you have an apple dessert on your menu right now? What kind of apples are you using?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> I use Macintosh, Gala, and Granny Smith apples.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> All very different in textures, tastes, and applications.

<colleen> How much traditional training do you think is necessary to work as a pastry chef in the real world? Do you think traditional pastry training helps?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> I am traditionally trained and it is important for a foundation to build off of. Not to say that someone without it isn’t a great pastry chef.

<angelcake> What was your first dessert you've created as a novice?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> At 17, my first dessert was a custard, either flan or crème brûlée. I was so proud.

<TinaFCI> How many years did you work in the field before you became an executive pastry chef?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> I started in pastry at 17, and I took exec pasty chef at Daniel at 26.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> That's pretty amazing.

<TinaFCI> Good for you! He's such a brilliant chef...

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Don’t rush being a chef. Learn from as many people as possible before taking top toque. It will only benefit you in the long run.

<sara> So true, always work with the best.

<eyebtrini> I love ice cream, man. Is there a way to create any flavor you want from one formula?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> There are some serious technical classes you can take. It isn't a one, two, three formula.

<angelcake> Do you have a book yet?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> My book actually goes to auction this week. Wish me luck.

<angelcake> What does that mean?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Publishers will bid on it, offering me different options and deals.

<Lissa> Is your book going to have your recipe for your Mango Ginger Soup? That is very good!!

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Sure will, Lisa. Thanks.

<Raina_PastryScoop> How does the book writing process work? Have you written it already or do you after someone picks it up?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> I have a writer, Roy Finamore, www.tastycentral.com.

<Lissa> Excellent!! I can't wait to buy it.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Can't wait to see it, too!

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Ok, guys, more pastry questions.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> What is your favorite dessert?

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> I bet you hate that question.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> How generic of a question is that? No comment.

<Lissa> Johnny, do you have any advice for a pastry graduate that due to religious reasons cannot work sundown Friday to sundown Saturday. Is it possible to get into the business and succeed?

<rita> That's my problem too —I can't work Friday or Saturday.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Lissa, look for a job in production. At Payard I would start work at 4am and finish around 4pm.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Many kitchens staff a morning crew to do production.

<Lissa> I tried Payard and he said, "You no work Saturday, you no work." The not being able to work Saturday during the day is the biggest problem.

<rita> Why don't you try kosher restaurants?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Lissa, tough one. Try Danny Meyers' restaurants. I think they work five days. Maybe they'll have something for you.

<Lissa> That's a good idea.

<vivian> A belated hello, Johnny. I'm at work so I have this in the background. I'm interested in food writing. Are there any books you like to read, or what did you look for in your writer?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> I am not a good reader. I don’t have much time and it's like an Ambien for me. I just pass out.

<sara> How long have you been in the pastry field?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> I was working upstate as a cook, just graduated high school. The florist there was the florist at the River Cafe, and she got me the job. I was 17.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> I graduated CIA at 19.

<GaryFoodArts> Top of the class?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> That was easy, Gary, it was a class of three.

<GaryFoodArts> Then how did you get your first pastry job at the age of 17? How old were you when you graduated from the CIA?

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> He was 19.

<GaryFoodArts> Judiaann, let Johnny speak for himself!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Johnny pays me to speak on his behalf.

<GaryFoodArts> Judiaann, do you know if Johnny has any tattoos, like Sam Mason?

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Yes, he does.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> In fact, he was having "work" done last night.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> I was getting another one colored in last night. My arm is sore.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> No pain, no gain.

<GaryFoodArts> What about piercings?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Wow, Gary! Do you work for Playgirl or what?

<GaryFoodArts> Hey, I can hardly wait until your demo at The FCI on January 7. Judiaann, you'll be there, too, right? I miss you!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> I'll be there!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Yes, save the date... Saturday, January 7th at The FCI. Johnny will be presenting a very special pastry demonstration for PastryScoop.com and TexaSweet. More details to come soon.

<GaryFoodArts> Just a reminder, Johnny. If you come up with a recipe that involves a technique that other pastry chefs can learn from, I'd be happy to cover it for Food Arts. You could get your picture taken during the demo!

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Cool, Gary. I just steal all my techniques though. Ha ha.

<GaryFoodArts> So, Johnny, do you have any plans to work with apriums again?

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> For those of you who missed it, I interviewed Johnny for an article for the November issue of Food Arts in which he talks about his aprium tasting.

<colleen> Did you just study pastry or all culinary arts? Do you think that pastry chefs need at least some training outside of pastry?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Just pastry.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> It definitely helps to have exposure to both sides of the kitchen.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> I competed in cooking in high school through a vocational school and took second place in NYC, went to state finals in cooking. Then I blew it.

<Lissa> Thanks for taking time out to chat with us. Got to run!

<trinh> Do you have a good recipe for chocolate mousse to fill a cake? I tried to make a mousse with gelatin but don't know when to add the gelatin to the mousse. Do you add the bloomed gelatin to the beaten egg white or to the melted chocolate? Please advise and how/what is the temperature of the ingredient before it seizes up? Thanks.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Trinh, get in touch with me through Judiaann.

<trinh> Thanks. I will e-mail Judiaann with my questions and hope to be able to make a good chocolate mousse cake for the holidays. Thanks again.

<ljmam> I know chefs love working with you not only for your talent but playful antics as well. Heard about a few with Daniel, but none so far at Jean Georges. Any you would like to share?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Let's put it this way. I have already had two final warnings.

<Raina_PastryScoop> That bit in New York about you sticking your thumbs in Daniel Boulud's pants was pretty priceless.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> That's nothing, Raina. Once we beat him up in the kitchen then took off and went to the movies. He called and said we broke his ribs and we were fired. Only to find out he was just playing us. Didn’t sleep too good that night.

<David> I am not a professional chef. I love to cook and am frequently complimented on my cooking, but it seems that my best work is pastry. What advice would you have for me with respect to taking specific courses as opposed to quitting my job and going to school full time? I am in LA, by the way.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> California Culinary Academy is supposed to be pretty good.

<David> Thanks. When I looked at local programs, like the Cordon Bleu in Pasadena, they only offer courses for full time students, but I will check with the CCA.

<colleen> I have heard that the pastry side of the kitchen is kind of the underdog, but that is slowly changing. Do you find that pastry gets less respect?

<Johnny_Iuzzini> No way. We are kicking those cooks' butts all over the place. Pastry chefs are in such high demand now.

<eyebtrini> So do you think it's better to know a lot of different approaches to pastry or specialize in a particular aspect such as chocolates or ice cream, etc? The reason I ask is someone recommended I specialize in something.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Learn everything first, then specialize.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> You never know if you are going to expand your business in different areas.

<aac610> I admire your work. In fact, I'm borrowing your chocolate covered Cocoa Puffs garnish. Thanks for the inspiration!

<Bill> I have been playing with non-egg mousse with chocolate as the binder. Do you know what is the advantage, if any, of using eggs.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Eggs are an emulsifier as well as a provider of richness and mouthfeel.

<colleen> My pastry teacher said she was a little worried about the low carb movement for awhile but that seems to have subsided.

<TinaFCI> Thank God!

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Fads, fads, fads —desserts are untouchable.

<David> I missed the early portion of this chat. Is a transcript available?

<GaryFoodArts> So, Johnny, do you have any plans to work with apriums again?

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> For those who missed the entire chat, the transcripts will be posted along with the others from this 4-Star Chef series on our site in the coming weeks.

<David> When are you coming to the West Coast? :)

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Not for a while, David.

<David> It's 80 in LA today!!! Come on out and escape the snow!

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Don't tease me, D.

<David> I am going to the beach at lunch (sorry—couldn't be helped).

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Thank you all for joining us today.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> And THANK YOU Chef Johnny for taking time out of your busy day to chat with us!

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Bye bye, guys.

<David> Thanks, Judiaann!!

<GaryFoodArts> Bye, Johnny!

<David> Thanks, Chef!

<colleen> Thanks, Johnny!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> What no kisses?

<David> 00XX

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Smooooooch.

<Kelly6> xxx

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Thank you all!

<Johnny_Iuzzini> All the love, I can't take it anymore.

<TinaFCI> Thanks, Chef! :)

<Johnny_Iuzzini> Cool beans.

<eyebtrini> Thank you again!!! Take care.

<Johnny_Iuzzini> No worries. Be bad, I mean good.

<Raina_PastryScoop> Thanks, Johnny. See you in January.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> And don't forget to log in on December 14th to chat with Sébastien Rouxel of per se.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Same time. Same deal.

BACK TO CHATS