PastryScoop 2005 4-Star Chef Chat Transcript

Sébastien Rouxel of per se
December 14, 2005

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Hello, everyone. Welcome to our final chat in our 4-Star Chef series. I'm delighted to introduce Sébastien Rouxel, the pastry chef at New York City's famed restaurant per se.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Please feel free to ask Chef Sébastien any questions that you might have.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Don't be shy.

<Sébastien_per se> Hi, guys.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Chef: Can you share with us some of the desserts that you have on your menu right now?

<Raina_PastryScoop> And which one is your favorite?

<Sébastien_per se> Snickers Bar, Smores, Spiced Caramel.

<Sébastien_per se> All of them are my favorites.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> All? You must have a favorite.

<Sébastien_per se> I don't have a favorite. I'm never satisfied with my work. There's always something new to try.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Never satisfied? That's crazy talk. Your desserts are amazing!

<Raina_PastryScoop> Which is selling the best?

<Sébastien_per se> Our dessert menu changes frequently. Right now a favorite of the guests is Spiced Caramel.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Ahhhh, caramel. It's the perfect time for caramel.

<Raina_PastryScoop> What are the components in that dessert?

<Sébastien_per se> Those are the components of the Spiced Caramel dessert.

<Kate_PastryScoop> Yum. That sounds great.

<laura112> What made you realize you wanted to be a pastry chef?

<Sébastien_per se> My aunt had a restaurant. That's how I got started.

<Jock_FCI> Hi, Chef Sébastien. Those desserts are a long way from your start in France, no? I guess you needed to Americanize things quite a bit.

<Sébastien_per se> I've been in the United States for 10 years. I work for an American chef. I guess I'm more American than French.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Can you talk us through your creative process? How and where do you get your ideas and inspiration?

<Sébastien_per se> My inspiration? I believe that classic food and classic desserts are the way to go. They just need to be introduced in a different or modern way or presentation.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> How do you feel about the whole molecular gastronomy trend?

<Sébastien_per se> I believe that it is a trend and that it will go away sometime soon.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Can you tell us what a typical day in the life of Sébastien Rouxel would be like?

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> It must be tough.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> You're under a lot of pressure. ha ha.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> No?

<Sébastien_per se> Starts at 4:30 in the morning to get to the city. I live upstate with my wife and two kids.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Yikes! That's early.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> But I bet it's beautiful where you live... nature.

<Sébastien_per se> Get to the restaurant between 6:30 and 7:00. My AM team is here at 6:00. I have a cup of coffee and start the day.

<Sébastien_per se> I organize the day and start chocolate production for the week.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> What time do you typically leave the kitchen each day?

<Sébastien_per se> I leave the kitchen each day between 7pm and 1am depending on the night.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Do you have a special chocolate room?

<Sébastien_per se> Yes, per se has a special chocolate room and there will be an even bigger one when Bouchon Bakery opens this spring.

<Raina_PastryScoop> We are so excited for Bouchon Bakery. Can you tell us your target opening date?

<Sébastien_per se> Bouchon Bakery should be open in early 2006.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Can you tell us a little about the style and concept behind the bakery?

<Sébastien_per se> It will be similar to Bouchon Bakery in Yountville. We'll be offering a selection of morning items, sandwiches, chocolates, and then we'll develop the pastry side as we do along.

<Kate_PastryScoop> Chef, can you tell us a little about where you've trained and how you got to where you are today?

<Sébastien_per se> I did my apprenticeship in Michelin starred restaurants in France. Then, did my Master's degree in a pastry shop.

<Sébastien_per se> Then moved to Paris to complete my military service, making pastries for the President of France.

<Sébastien_per se> At 21, I was the youngest pastry chef at a three-star Michelin restaurant in Paris.

<Kate_PastryScoop> Wow, very impressive!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> By the way, CONGRATULATIONS on the three-star top honors with Michelin! That's fantastic.

<Sébastien_per se> Then I moved LA and then to The French Laundry.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Three stars in Paris and three stars in NYC. Pretty cool.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Do you prefer New York to LA? You can be honest.

<Sébastien_per se> I prefer New York.

<Kate_PastryScoop> Besides per se, any other favorite places in NYC to eat dessert?

<Sébastien_per se> To be honest, I don't really eat desserts that often. When I go out to eat I like to go out for savory foods. My favorite restaurant in New York is Le Bernardin.

<Kate_PastryScoop> Ha! Well, I guess when you're surrounded by sweets all day, you'd want savory things when you go out.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Yes, Michael Laiskonis makes wonderful desserts.

<Linda> Hello chef. How do you correct fat bloom and sugar bloom when working with tempered chocolate?

<Sébastien_per se> For the fat bloom, you need to agitate the chocolate frequently to prevent the cocoa butter from separating.

<PaulaR> I have a question about Splenda, do you ever use it in any of your recipes?

<Sébastien_per se> I never have used Splenda, I don't use artificial sweeteners.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> What is the ideal temperature to store finished chocolates?

<Sébastien_per se> The ideal temp for finished chocolates is between 40 and 45 degrees with no humidity.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Great. Thank you. That was for someone who asked me to ask you.

<Sébastien_per se> I'm trying to keep up with everyone's questions.

<Sébastien_per se> Hehe.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> You're doing an excellent job!

<sassykatcakes> Hello.

<sassykatcakes> It was so hard to get into here.

<Kate_PastryScoop> Hi, sassykatcakes. Glad you made it!

<sassykatcakes> I managed to get out of work for an hour to talk.

<sassykatcakes> I was intrigued because it said you use unusual ingredients and try to make a perfect balance of flavors textures and temperatures and that is all I think about.

<sassykatcakes> And that is why I am going to FCI because they will help me master the French techniques.

<sassykatcakes> Because so many restuarants don’t make their own desserts, and I live for plated desserts.

<Jock_FCI> Yay, Sassykatcakes! I am glad to hear you will be studying at FCI!

<Linda> Gelatin: sheets or powder, which do you prefer using?

<Sébastien_per se> I prefer to use sheets. The powder leaves an aftertaste.

<Linda> Thanks!

<atlbaker> If a recipe calls for two tablespoons powdered gelatin, what would the equivalent amount be in sheets?

<Sébastien_per se> A sheet is two grams of gelatin. Actually they have different ones, two grams, three grams, and five grams.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Have you ever used a vegan gelatin?

<Sébastien_per se> Yes, I've used agar agar.

<Linda> Do you stabilize your whipped cream desserts? Always? Sometimes? Never?

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> I would imagine that at per se they make everything and everything is made to be as fresh as possible.

<Sébastien_per se> I never stabilize my whipped cream desserts. We don't need to because we don't recycle from evening to evening. Everything is made that day fresh for that night's service.

<swansong> Chef, what are your thoughts on a number of pastry chefs utilizing industrial food additives to enhance their dishes?

<Sébastien_per se> When you start to mass produce and ship, you need to start using additives so that things will keep.

<swansong> I am speaking more of the use of such items as methyl cellulose, maltodextrin, alginates, etc...

<Sébastien_per se> Those are all chemical products that I don't use.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> It sounds like your a purist. That's nice.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Would you say that most of the people that you hire have some formal training in pastry?

<Sébastien_per se> Well, our staff all has some training in pastry. For the caliber of what they are expected to do, we need people that have had some experience.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Yes, I would imagine that you can be pretty selective about who you hire or bring into your kitchens.

<Sébastien_per se> We have an extensive internship program. We've actually hired some of our externs from the FCI.

<Jock_FCI> Thanks for hiring FCI students Chef!

<Danielle> Sébastien - Do you come up with all of your menu items yourself?

<Sébastien_per se> I came up with all of the menu items myself.

<Linda> Are you a bread baker, Chef?

<Sébastien_per se> I have knowledge of bread techniques but wouldn't call myself a bread baker.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Have you discovered any interesting or cool ingredients that you were not familiar with in France?

<Sébastien_per se> There are some fruits here that you cannot get in Europe.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Do you have a favorite regional fruit?

<Sébastien_per se> I like huckleberries from Oregon.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Hey, I'm from Oregon!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> I love Oregon huckleberries and boysenberries.

<sassykatcakes> Chef, what advice would you give to someone striving to gain a position like yours?

<Sébastien_per se> To become a pastry chef, I would say start out in restaurant kitchens. We find, currently, that more people are interested in being in a bakery than they are in being in a restaurant.

<Sébastien_per se> Maybe it's the hours.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> From my own experience, I find that restaurants, due to the nature of the environment, allow for the most creativity. It's an excellent place to gain experience even if your goals are to work in bakeries in the long term.

<katzie159> I love the restaurant hours.

<katzie159> How would I go about getting an internship or applying to per se?

<Sébastien_per se> To get an internship at per se you could go through your culinary school office or email a resume and cover letter to 12jobs@perseny.com

<katzie159> I don't start my program until March.

<katzie159> Could I apply for an internship now even though I don't start until March?

<Sébastien_per se> Katzie, It's best if you have some formal training under your belt before applying for an internship. An externship here is a full time commitment. You should send me your resume when you're done with the program.

<swansong> With the advent of the term "molecular gastronomy," it seems at times the "cart is leading the horse" for many young chefs, i.e., knowing how to use such items. It seems to be a generation more interested in "technique" over flavor. Your thoughts?

<Sébastien_per se> We feel that people are looking for more comfort food. That's the way that I work. Flavor is so important.

<katzie159> I make something called a whipped caramel cream and it never holds the volume I want. It is a base of a creamy caramel sauce, stiffly whipped cream and sour cream, and the sour cream always causes it to fall.

<katzie159> Do you have any advice on how I could keep more volume?

<Sébastien_per se> Yes, sour cream doesn't whip.

<Sébastien_per se> Have you tried using egg whites to get more volume?

<katzie159> No, would that affect the texture in the end?

<katzie159> Because I don’t want it to be like a meringue—I use it on napoleons.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Maybe you can replace the sour cream with whipped crème fraîche?

<katzie159> The sour cream is so key, though. It balances out the sweetness of the caramel.

<Raina_PastryScoop> Crème fraîche would do the same.

<katzie159> I think I will try adding a stiff peak egg white. It is a great idea. Thanks.

<swansong> Are you using a PacoJet at per se? Is a thermomix in use in that kitchen?

<Sébastien_per se>> Yes, we have a PacoJet at per se.

<Sébastien_per se> We don't own a thermomix here but I have used one in France.

<LynneL> What is a PacoJet?

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> It's a special ice cream maker that allows you to churn ice cream per order.

<VillageCake> Do you ever work the room and not just the kitchen?

<Sébastien_per se> I don't really venture into the dining room that often. Most of the time, our guests are given a kitchen tour and I can see them then.

<baker> When you layer different types of melted chocolate one on top of another, how can I prevent the layers from separating from one another?

<Sébastien_per se> Don't allow the first layer to crystallize too long before adding the next layer and so on and so forth.

<baker> So, when I pour chocolate layers, I shouldn't let one set fully before I pour the next chocolate layer, as most recipes suggest?

<Sébastien_per se> Your don't want the layers to get cold, because if they get cold they won't come out.

<baker> Thank you!

<Danielle> Do you have any favorite pastry chefs?

<Sébastien_per se> Pierre Hermes is my favorite pastry chef.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Yes, Pierre Hermes does lovely desserts.

<Jock_FCI> Pierre's caramel Napoleon is the best on the planet.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Best on the planet? Now that's a recommendation!

<swansong> Hermes' macaroons are amazing.

<Jock_FCI> Chef, were you in Paris for the "Macaroon Wars?"

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Sounds dangerous!

<Sébastien_per se> I am unfamiliar with the "Macaroon Wars."

<Jock_FCI> That was when there was intense competition from all the great pastry chefs on who had the best macaroon. I heard about it from Dorie Greenspan.

<Kate_PastryScoop> Yum. Wish I'd been there for that!

<jt> How do you keep a cake frosted with whipping cream from falling? Do you add any gelatin to your whipping cream? If so, what is the proportion?

<Sébastien_per se> For the cake with whipped cream, you can add gelatin to the whipped cream or lecithin.

<swansong> What form of lecithin do you use? Granules? Powder?

<Sébastien_per se> Liquid and powder.

<jt> Chef Sébastien, how much gelatin do you add to two cups of heavy cream (before beating)? And how and when do you add it into the cream?

<Sébastien_per se> For heavy cream, I would add one to two sheets of gelatin for two cups. Let it bloom and let it melt in the microwave. I would add it at the end when the cream is already whipped.

<katzie159> What flavors would you pair with a blood orange sauce?

<Sébastien_per se> With a blood orange sauce, I would pair fennel or cranberries.

<katzie159> Fennel. Interesting.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> I've been noticing fennel pop up more and more on dessert menus these days.

<Sébastien_per se> We also have a fig-fennel bread for use with the cheese course.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Fig and fennel sounds like a tasty combination.

<Sébastien_per se> Fennel was the first vegetable that I used in my pastry career.

<katzie159> Really? How did you first use fennel?

<Sébastien_per se> I used fennel to make a fennel marmalade and served it with a red pepper sorbet.

<katzie159> Amazing.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> I like ice creams and sorbets made with nontraditional ingredients. That red pepper sorbet sounds nice.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Are you doing any desserts with chestnuts right now?

<Sébastien_per se> We have chestnuts on our dessert menu right now.

<Jock_FCI> I saw a chestnut cheescake recipe in the Times today. It is that time of year.

<Sébastien_per se> It's my version of a chocolate tart with candied chestnuts and homemade chestnut ice cream.

<VillageCake> OH STOP!!

<katzie159> Is the tart served warm?

<Sébastien_per se> The tart is room temperature.

<Jock_FCI> That sounds amazing!

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Very nice. We have a story to be posted on our website about chestnut desserts by culinary historian Meryle Evans.

<baker> You mentioned that people are looking for more comfort food. What sorts of recipes do you have to address this trend?

<Sébastien_per se> We have Coffee and Doughnuts.

<katzie159> I think that's what Anthony Bourdain ate that when he had an episode visiting the French Laundry

<Sébastien_per se> Sacre Torte, Snickers Bar. That's why we use those names, because they invoke those flavors.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> I really enjoy the whimsy in the dessert names.

<Sébastien_per se> I use those names because that's how Thomas works. On the savory menu there are dishes called Mac and Cheese and Peas and Carrots.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Yes, but the nice surprise is that the actual creations are anything but plain mac and cheese and peas and carrots.

<Sébastien_per se> Any other questions I can answer?

<VillageCake> Is there meat loaf on your menu?

<Sébastien_per se> No, there's no meatloaf on per se's menu.

<VillageCake> Darn.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Ha ha.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> If so, I'm sure it would be one very very tasty and finely executed meat loaf.

<Jock_FCI> Meat loaf with fennel!

<VillageCake> Cognac in a meatloaf.

<Jock_FCI> Chef, when you do open your own place, do you think it will be in NYC or upstate?

<Sébastien_per se> If I were to open my own place, I would open it upstate. I think that it's a lot to compete with the many talented pastry chefs here in the city. I don't think that adding another one makes sense.

<Sébastien_per se> There's the issue of rent as well.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Well, I'm sure people would come running if you opened up your own place.

<Raina_PastryScoop> Do you keep up with new trends in France? Is there anything exciting or very different from what's going on here?

<Sébastien_per se> I don't keep up with the French trends as much as I'd like. I don't make it over there very often. Between the restaurant and my kids, I'm busy here.

<sarah_phillips> What is the most ordered dessert in your restaurant?

<Sébastien_per se> That's a difficult question to answer because everyone at per se gets dessert.

<Sébastien_per se> I get asked what's my favorite dessert, that's an impossible question to answer, too.

<jt> Chef, do you have a good chocolate mousse to be used in between layer of cakes that you would share? Thanks.

<Sébastien_per se> I think that the Joy of Cooking has a good recipe.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> I hear that they've eliminated the custom of tipping at per se. How's that working out?

<Sébastien_per se> It's working out fine.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> I know that a lot of people were skeptical, but I think it's a brave move.

<VillageCake> Is it added directly to the bill like in Europe?

<Sébastien_per se> Service is included in the price of the menu, just like at The French Laundry.

<VillageCake> Interesting.

<PABLO> Where are you from?

<Sébastien_per se> I am from the Loire Valley.

<Kate_PastryScoop> Any holiday favorites (or traditions) that you make for your family?

<Sébastien_per se> My wife makes an amazing pecan pie. She'll be making that again at Christmas. I mainly cook savory food at home.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> It must be nice when someone makes you dessert for a change.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Do you have any kitchen pet peeves?

<Sébastien_per se> I dislike people who cannot work clean or organized. Those two things are really the things for me. Neatness and organization.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Neatness and organization are hallmarks to all the best talents in the kitchen.

<PABLO> Do you use bread flour or all-purpose flour for small pieces like petits four sec?

<Sébastien_per se> We use AP flour.

<mamapea> Who inspires you the most?

<Sébastien_per se> Pierre Hermes.

<PABLO> Do you think that dry yeast acts different in a finished product than does wet?

<Sébastien_per se> Yes, it does. Dry yeast requires a lot more liquid.

<mamapea> How many staff do you have in your kitchen?

<Sébastien_per se> There are 14 people on the pastry staff at per se.

<VillageCake> How many seats does per se have?

<Sébastien_per se> There are 15 tables. We have about 90 guests every evening.

<PABLO> What is your most favorite cookbook that you reference?

<Sébastien_per se> Many times by the time a cookbook comes out and you look at it, it is outdated.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Well, unfortunately, we're out of time. We have to let Chef Sébastien get back to the kitchen now.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> THANK YOU so much chef for taking time out of your busy day to chat with us!

<Sébastien_per se> You're very welcome. Happy to do it.

<VillageCake> Thanks!!!

<mamapea> How can I look at the entire conversation?

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> For those of you who tuned in late, transcripts from this chat along with the others from this 4-Star Chef series will be posted on www.pastryscoop.com in the coming weeks.

<mamapea> Thanks.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Happy holidays everyone! Thank you for joining us today!

<Sébastien_per se> Goodbye.

<Judiaann_PastryScoop> Thank you again, Chef! Much appreciated.

BACK TO CHATS