Kir Rodriguez of The French Culinary Institute
 June 10 , 2009

liesel pastryscoop: Welcome everyone. Please start asking your chocolate questions to Chef Kir. We are excited to have him with us.

robert.green1@btconnect.com:  Hello.

liesel pastryscoop: Hi, Robert! Welcome to the chat.

robert.green1@btconnect.com: Thanks.

sarah pastryscoop:  Hi there everybody!

robert.green1@btconnect.com: I am just starting to make chocolates.

chef kir:  Good for you Robert. What's your first question?

robert.green1@btconnect.com:  With hand tempering, I always have trouble with making larger pieces, e.g. bars. Much of the finished article looks like glass with a wave in it—so annoying.

robert.green1@btconnect.com:  Is this a cooling problem or a tempering problem?

chef kir:  What do you mean like glass?

robert.green1@btconnect.com:  Very shiny, but there always seems to be a flaw in it.

chef kir: And by wave you mean a streak?

robert.green1@btconnect.com:  Yes.

chef kir:  It sounds like you are overtempering. Your chocolate is getting too cold and too many beta crystals are in it.

robert.green1@btconnect.com:  How do I know if it is overtempered or undertempered?

robert.green1@btconnect.com:  Is that too cold as I temper it or that after I have poured it is cooling too quickly?

chef kir:  It's overtempered if it is getting too thick, and under if it is not setting soon enough. The best tool for this is using a digital thermometer and keeping your chocolate at the highest number in the tempering scale. You need to see the numbers in the thermometer. That's why it's better for you to get a digital one. depends on the brand you can be talking about 91 to 93°F for dark chocolate.

robert.green1@btconnect.com: How do I recognize that at the time of tempering? Everything seems OK at that stage.

robert.green1@btconnect.com:  I sometimes wonder if I cool it too quickly or too slowly?

IngridMD:  I made chocolate frosting for a birthday cake yesterday. I used an unsweetened chocolate from Belgium that I bought at Trader Joe's. I wasn't happy with the results. I normally like to make a frosting from ganache, but my husband prefers old-fashion frosting using confectioners' sugar. What would you recommend?

sarah pastryscoop:  What didn't you like about it exactly, Ingrid? The taste or the texture?

IngridMD: The taste—much too mild chocolate flavor. (I really love dark chocolate.)

sarah pastryscoop:  Ingrid, maybe try using semisweet next time or a combination of dark and milk chocolate to give your palate a more rounded flavor.

liesel pastryscoop: Ingrid, a good way to pick a chocolate you like as a frosting is to choose one you would like to eat by itself. Especially if you enjoy the dark chocolate flavor you won't want to be adding much sugar if at all.

IngridMD: Thanks Sarah and Liesel. Usually if I'm making "frosting," I'll use cocoa powder, sometimes using dark cocoa. I thought I would try something new.

Chef Eric:  Hello everyone. I hope this is an appropriate question for this forum, as this is my first time chatting here, but I am wondering: Chef Kir, if you could recommend who would be the best wholesaler for bulk Valrhona Chocolates here on the East Coast? Is Qzina the best/only true wholesaler?

chef kir:  Eric that's a good question. I'm not up to date with information about East Coast purveyors, but I'll get back to you on that. OK?

Chef Eric: Thank you Chef. I appreciate it.

foodgirt1:  I would like to know which chocolate (brand) and what percentage is best to use for a mousse?

liesel pastryscoop: Chef Kir, we've had a couple of questions about choosing chocolate percentages for specific dishes. Can you talk a little about how you go about it?

chef kir:  Percentages in chocolate refers to the amount of chocolate "liquor" by weight. The remainder is sugar. So if you want a strong chocolate flavor in your recipe you would try to use a high percentage chocolate.

chef kir:  However, if you are substituting a standard chocolate (50 to 58 percent) in a recipe for, say a 72 percent, you might have problems in your recipe. Using high-percentage chocolate is like adding more cocoa powder, so you need to balance your recipe by adding a little more liquid, maybe more fat and a little more sugar. A great cookbook for this is Alice Medrich's Bittersweet. Not only does she have recipes with different percentages, she also gives you suggestions on what changes you need to make with different percentages in the same recipe.

sarah pastryscoop:  That's a great a book to know about Chef! Thank you.

janieromo:  Chef, I sell sweets and treats as a vendor at street fairs and market days, people are requesting more chocolate items. I live in Texas. What would you suggest to be able to keep the product on my table display and not melt so quickly.

chef kir:  Janie, you need to get yourself a portable refrigerated box.

sarah pastryscoop:  Like a mini-wine fridge, chef?

chef kir:  Yes, Sarah. Excellent idea. Or, you can make one yourself by using a block of ice under one compartment and a tray with your chocolate on top.

janieromo: Do you mean dry ice or just plain-Jane ice?

bphelps:  Janieromo, I am in Florida, and I have used a wine cooler.  Make sure you get one that lets you pick the temp.

janieromo: Thank you!

pacchiano@verizon.net:  Chef, can you recommend any other books that are strong in chocolate technique rather than just recipes?

chef kir:  A great book about chocolate techniques is Chocolate and Confections by Peter P. Greweling.

sarah pastryscoop:  I like that book as well, chef.

janieromo: Chef Greweling's book is like the Bible of chocolate making. He is unique and precise in his instruction of chocolate making.

TwoNewfs:  I love Greweling's and Medrich's books, too!  But tempering small amounts of chocolate is my downfall. Not enough practice? (grin)  Also would like info on tempering machines.  The best temperer I know supplements the machine with a blow-dryer for fine adjustments.

chef kir:  The best way to temper small amounts of chocolates is the microwave.

IngridMD: What brand of white chocolate can you recommend for baking?

chef kir: For white chocolate, make sure it states the use of cocoa butter. No vegetable oil.

IngridMD: I have tried to make white chocolate ganache many times, but always fail. What percentage chocolate to cream should I be using?

chef kir:  For white ganache, you need to remember that not only do you have cocoa butter in it but milk and sugar and emulsifiers, too. So the proportions of cream to chocolate in dark ganache does not work with white. Y ou need to reduce your cream to half the amount of white chocolate by weight, at the very least.

IngridMD: Thank you.

echung:  Hi, chef! Would you please tell me how to use gum arabic to give my panned chocolate almonds a shiny coat? I hand panned some nuts with chocolates and bought a jar of gum arabic, it is in powder form, but don't know how to use it. I guess I need to mix the powder into a solution first? With water? And then do I coat the panned products while still mixing? I tried but failed. I hope you can help me and tell me the proper way. Thanks so much!

chef kir:  Gum arabic. You need to dissolve it with, at least, same amount, by weight, with one of the other dry ingredients you are using and then dissolve it in cold liquid.

echung: so after I finished coating the nuts with chocolates, then what should I do? I mix the gum arabic with cocoa powder or confectioners' sugar and mix into the tempered chocolate and keep panning? Sorry. I'm a bit confused...

chef kir:  What you described is right.  Mix the gum arabic with cocoa powder or confectioner's sugar and mix into the tempered chocolate and keep panning.

echung: Thanks, chef Kir! I'll give that a try!

chef kir:  echung, let me know what happens. I'll send you more information about it.

foodgirt1: Chef Kir, what brand and percent of chocolate should be used for a mousse. And what technique should be used?

chef kir:  Dark mousse, milk, or white?

foodgirt1: Actually, both.

chef kir:  And again, do you like your mousse not too sweet, hard or soft. There are so many variations.

foodgirt1: I want it to stand up for some time in the refrigerator.  I use it on top of cake. I don't want it to break down when I cut it. Right now I use gelatin.

chef kir:  You need to get yourself samples of chocolates and taste and try.

eskowronek: Chef Kir; What is the best ratio of dark chocolate to cream for making a ganache to be used as thin coating on a cake? What is the best way to make it shine?

chef kir:  Best ganache topping: 450 grams chocolate, 330 grams unsalted butter, and 2 tablespoons corn syrup. Best. Best. Best.

eskowronek: Thanks, chef Kir!!!

chef kir:  Always the best way to learn about chocolate is to read, read, read—you need to be a voracious reader. T here are so many good books out there. And then you need to try everything and decide what you like best.

sarah pastryscoop:  Yes, never be afraid to try something new. If you fail, then you try again and again until you are satisfied with the results.

eskowronek: Thanks again.

chef kir:  We have excellent short courses in chocolate at The International Culinary Center (ICC). Check them out.

christina.schmidt119:  Chef kir , I have taken a class at The FCI. Chocolate Bonbons and more, I think the class was called, and absolutely loved it. I am looking in the future to open my own chocolate store. Can you suggest any other classes to take to prepare me more before I open my store?

liesel pastryscoop: Christina, The FCI also offers amateur classes in Chocolate Desserts and Decorating with Chocolate. Excellent prep classes.

christina.schmidt119: Thank you, liesel. I have no other experience with making chocolates but absolutely love to do it. I am more interested in making chocolates rather than desserts.

liesel pastryscoop: Then you may also enjoy the Chocolate Treats and Truffles class. It's a recreational course at the ICC.

christina.schmidt119: that sounds good. I would consider myself somewhat of an amateur. In my spare time I make chocolates in my own kitchen but would love to make it my living some day.

liesel pastryscoop: Well, having fun and practicing like you are doing is a great start!

chef kir:  Absolutely, Christina. Try, try, try.

christina.schmidt119: I do what I can. My house is actually not efficent as it used to be a beach house and there is no AC installed. Sometimes I have problems with my truffles not hardening. The ganaches tend to stay too soft. Is there anything you can suggest to help, or that I may be doing wrong to fix that problem?

chef kir:  Christina, take some of the cream out of your recipe, that might help.

christina.schmidt119: Wonderful. Thank you, chef Kir.

eskowronek: Chef, do you have preferred brands of chocolate? What about Amedei?

chef kir:  Amedei, it's my favorite. I must say, the best in the world so far.

eskowronek: I love Amedei but can only buy it over the Internet. Any sources?

chef kir:  you're right. Only internet in the States. I bought a lot on my last trip to Italy.

sarah pastryscoop:  Write the company eskowronek. The more they know that people are interested in their chocolate, the more willing the company will be to make their product more available.

eskowronek: Good idea. I will follow up on it.

Chef Eric: Chef Kir, I think I read that you are also a chef-instructor: Would you be able to comment on whether your school, or any other reputable businesses  that you're aware of  (besides E-bay of course), sells used confectionary equipment (specifically looking for a Guitar in decent condition). I am getting ready to open a shop and new e-commerce site for artisan chocolate, and some of the specialized equipment I require is very, very pricey.

chef kir:  Chef Eric. Go to www.pastrychef.com. The sell everything.

sarah pastryscoop:  Where are you located, Eric?

Chef Eric: Hi, Sarah. I'm in HERSHEY, PA, (ironically enough). I have checked out all the usual suspects like www.pastrychef.com, Kerekes, etc., but all they have is new equipment, and of course, with a new start-up, I must be very budget conscious. 

sarah pastryscoop:  Why don't you try restaurant equipment stores? I'm sure there are some in Philadelphia. Or take a trip to New York City where there are many stores selling new and used equipment of all sorts. Also, try online auction sites.

chef kir:  Try Craigslist. also go to other chocolate stores and ask. Don't be afraid to ask.

Chef Eric: Yes, thank you....I have been trying places like auction houses, and restaurant equipment supply stores, but so far I've had no luck finding a Guitar or the chocolate melters I'm seeking:(  ......I might just have to break out a credit card and buy new....as much as it galls me!

liesel pastryscoop: Any questions we missed?

Chef Eric: Chef Kir, I also wanted to just add a comment as I saw that a few folks asked about tempering machines.....I think that it's much more conducive to quantity chocolates production (as long as you understand the science behind tempering) to just use a good chocolate melter such as the Mol d'Art melters. I am wondering if you would comment on that.

chef kir:  I'm afraid I don't know the Mol d'Art melter. I always improvise when in comes to keeping my chocolate at the right temperature. You're right about machines, though. They are more for large quantities. I have a digital pot that keeps my water at 90°F for my dark chocolate.

Chef Eric: Yes. I just feel that the smaller quantity tempering machines are insufficient when you consider how expensive they are, and larger tempering machines are very expensive.

chef kir:  If you want to get in touch with me, send  your question to PastryScoop.com. Liesel, where exactly?

liesel pastryscoop: You can send your questions to info@pastryscoop.com.

liesel pastryscoop: We will pass them all on to Chef Kir.

chef kir:  Thanks, Liesel.

liesel pastryscoop: We have a few minutes left. Any remaining questions that you would like to have answered after that, just send them along to us and we will make sure they get passed on to chef Kir.

echung: Thanks everyone! Have fun making chocolates and cakes!

chef kir:  Thanks, echung.

chef kir:  The more you eat chocolate, the more you tend to like dark chocolate, and the higher the percentage you prefer. That's my experience. My favorites range between 72 to 80 percent. It depends on the brand.

janieromo: Thank you for your knowledge.

liesel pastryscoop: As chef Kir says, I think tasting is so important. The more you taste, the more you can see what percentages and brands you like.

sarah pastryscoop:  Very true, Liesel.

liesel pastryscoop: You also get to understand the different flavor profiles of cocoa beans from different regions.

liesel pastryscoop: We have an article on doing your own chocolate tasting on PastryScoop.com from last February. It's a good place to start.

chocolatesherri: For those interested in opening up their own chocolate shop, I would recommend online courses at http://www.ecolechocolat.com. It helps with the business planning, shelf life studies, etc.

liesel pastryscoop: Great tip chocolatesherri. Thanks.

robert.green1@btconnect.com:  Thanks, chef, for all the good information.

chef kir:  My pleasure.

Cookie:  Sorry, just joined and maybe this has already been asked.  How long does chocolate last? I have heard that if it has turned white it's still ok. Is that true?

chef kir:  Well-covered, under low humidity, low light, cool temperature (68°F) for one year. But who can have chocolate for one year without eating it?

liesel pastryscoop: That's my question!

janieromo: No one that I know.

sarah pastryscoop:  Very true Chef! :)

chef kir:  If it's white, you can still use it. It means some of those requirements weren't met. It might be a little brittle and faded tasting.

Cookie: Is there any advantage to freezing it?

chef kir:  You can freeze it . VERY well covered. To defrost: Place in refrigerator one day and then at room temperature.

Cookie: Thank you very much.  I'm sorry to have missed what was surely a great chat.

chef kir:  Thanks to everyone for your questions. Happy chocolate making. And remember, when in doubt, just have a chocolate :-)

sarah pastryscoop:  Thank you, everybody for all your great questions!

liesel pastryscoop: Well, we are out of time. Thanks to everyone for joining us. Once again, please email us at info@pastryscoop.com if you have any other questions for chef Kir and we will send them along.

Chef Eric: Thank you chef Kir and PastryScoop!

IngridMD: Very informative chat. Thank you to everyone for their questions and answers.

liesel pastryscoop: And don't forget we will be talking with Gary Guittard next week for more chocolate fun.