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EMILY'S BLOG
The Sweet Life of a Pastry Student at The FCI

Follow Emily Carrus, former magazine editor turned full-time pastry student, as she shares with you her personal account of what it takes and what it's like to be a student at The French Culinary Institute.

 
  
Blog Entries

Orientation - Day 6
Day 9 - 17
Day 18 - 27
Day 29 - 41
Day 42 - 55
Day 59 - 71
Day 72 - 80
Day 83 - 93
Day 95-109
Day 112- graduation
   

Day 29: Feeling Buzzed
 
   
   
It's funny how we measure our progress sometimes, isn't it?

As I eagerly awaited the start of this pastry program last year, I voraciously flipped through my cookbook collection and dreamt about what I'd be learning to make. I'd take to the kitchen with some recipes—those that seemed challenging but still doable for an amateur—but others I preferred to hold sacred: recipes to save for the better-trained me.

   

Much to the disappointment of my husband, Dan, I never gave into his repeated request: "Make that bee cake," he'd urge, referring to one of Rose Levy Beranbaum's bumble bee-topped desserts in The Cake Bible.

Well, dear readers, I've done it: I've crafted marzipan-y delicious bumble bees, part of the beehive cake we learned in class today. And I am feeling buzzed. A milestone reached—dessert bees!

Don't worry, I'm perfectly aware that getting so much satisfaction from making candy bees may be weird/lame/even disturbing to many of you. But not to Dan: He understood the bee bliss, too—and finally got to eat "that bee cake" he'd been pleading for.


Day 32: Strength Training

Lift. Stir. Whisk. Bend. Roll. Scrub. Knead. And repeat.

Sounds like the soundtrack of an aerobics DVD—but, as I've learned, it's the routine practiced in a pastry kitchen.

When I dreamt of starting pastry school, I didn't focus much on the physicality of the work, my mind instead daydreaming of icing cakes and drizzling chocolate—the glamour, if you will. But here we are, 32 days into the program, and my fellow students and I are beefing up. I'm getting biceps (real ones!) and some bulk in my forearms—who knew we even had muscle there?

Take yesterday's puff pastry exam. My assignment for the practical portion—cheese straws, papillions, and a round napoleon—required the rolling out of cold dough (workout #1), the vigorous whisking of pastry cream over the stove (workout #2), and the whipping of heavy cream for the napoleon's crème legere (workout #3), not to mention all the other moving around that kitchen work brings. Now we've moved on to cakes—yippee!—and this morning started with a workout, too: We made our first-ever génoise by hand.

You long-time pastry professionals must be quite strapping by now, no?


Day 35: When Life Gives You Lemons

   
   
Today I just had "one of those days."

I'm sure many of you can sympathize: We all have days when life seems to throw pies in our face, and I've had my fair share at other jobs I've held. But maintaining sanity in an action-packed kitchen when nothing seems to go your way? Well, that was a challenge I'd never faced before.

I woke up feeling off this morning, allergies weighing down my eyelids and clouding my judgment. When class began, my brain did not: I fell behind early on, having to re-do a biscuit jaconde that I grossly overcooked, and felt three steps behind most of the morning.

Later, I got distracted during a portion of the lemon cake demo. I missed what must have been some very important steps: my cake sank, rather than rose.

And quickly thereafter, I nearly lost my marjolaine when I was struck with a case of butterfingers; I still don't know how I managed to grab it mid-air before it went "splat" all over the floor, but thankfully, I did.

I just couldn't find my groove today, and I'm really glad the day is over. Now I'm comfortably at home, finally centered, and feeling myself again. Even more, my excitement for pastry—and pastry class—is back! Rather than cursing the cake demons, I'm salivating over the sumptuous charlotte russe that I managed to eke out despite the turmoil of my day.


That's what I call a happy ending.


Day: 37: Switching Sides
 
   
   

When you're in culinary school, opportunities lie in every direction. Each day there's a new flier hanging in the hallway advertising job openings, wine tastings, seminars, requests for volunteers, and so much more.

Though I'm a baker at heart, I do love the savory side of the kitchen, too. So when I saw the flier requesting student assistance at a 200-person event showcasing the dishes of more than 15 food pros, I just had to sign up (and pray that they wouldn't quiz me on the different cuts of a cow).

And so I made the switch from sweet to savory—for just one night, for better or for worse. Am I glad I did!

Had I not, I may never have met cookbook author, Food Network star, and executive chef of Gourmet, Sara Moulton. (No joke! Check out the picture!) I may never have cooked scallops alongside renowned chef and FCI Dean Alain Sailhac (What an experience: By the end of the evening Chef Sailhac had me doing the sautéing and seasoning!). And I probably wouldn't have come home with a pocketful of business cards from other area chefs, who graciously indulged my inquiries regarding future internships in their restaurant kitchens.

Wherever I end up in my career, I probably won't be called upon to cook the scallop special. And I probably won't have Sara on my speed dial anytime soon. But to be hanging out in their circle—well, more like dangling on the side holding on for dear life—for this one enchanted evening was simply unforgettable.


Day 41: Cake Parade

Layer them up, schmear on buttercream. Write a catchy phrase, fill with Bavarian cream, or simply decorate with candied nuts. Cakes are made to show off, and that's exactly what I plan to do. Check out some of what my classmates and I have constructed, while I escape to a coffee shop for a few hours to study for our first cake exam. Tomorrow is another test day!

 
 
     
 
     
 
     
   
  Born and raised in Bernardsville, New Jersey, Emily Carrus attributes her love of food to two forces in her life: her mother, who freelanced cakes out of her kitchen for a local bakery when Emily was young, and the culinary mecca of New Orleans, where she studied communication and economics at Tulane University. Following her return to the Northeast and a career as a travel editor for a trade magazine, Emily began the Classic Pastry Arts program at The French Culinary Institute in March of 2006.
   
Career Pastry Amateur Pastry Career Bread Amateur Bread Faculty