Photo courtesy of Whole Foods Market

Let them eat cake
Gluten-Free Cake, That Is

By Porche Lovely

Pastry chefs and bakers have long ridden the roller coaster of consumer demand with free-, low-, and "lite" baked goods all enjoying their fleeting 15 minutes of fame. Thankfully, some had less time in the spotlight, for which taste buds all over the nation rejoiced. Though it's often fad diets that drive customers to look for fat-free, sugar-free, low-carb (and-so-on) items on bakery and dessert menus, dietary restrictions based on allergies or other medical conditions are here to stay.

In bagels and baguettes, pancakes and pie dough, and cakes and cookies, customers are increasingly asking for products made without wheat flour, the main structure provider and backbone of baking. The challenge facing the baking industry is to prepare products using wheat flour alternatives that offer the same flavor, mouthfeel, and chew. Until recently, wheat-free baked goods have suffered from downright miserable texture, and gluten-intolerant individuals had no choice but to choke down dense and crumbly facsimiles of their favorite treats. More and more people are changing their diets to give up bread and desserts as adults, so they know what they're missing.

Sorghum plants ready for harvesting.

The rise of the gluten-free diet stems from greater awareness of allergies and the large number of people being diagnosed with celiac disease, a digestive disorder in which gluten consumption prevents the absorption of nutrients and causes damage to the lining of the small intestine. In 2004, the National Institute of Health (NIH) estimated that about 1 in 100 Americans, or approximately 3 million people nationwide, suffer from celiac disease, making it the most common hereditary autoimmune disorder. But nowadays, it's not only wheat-allergy and celiac disease sufferers who have chosen to exclude wheat from their diets. The gluten-free diet has been shown to benefit autistic children and those who suffer from autoimmune diseases, like rheumatoid arthritis, multiple sclerosis, and lupus.

	A readily available brand of soy flour.

What does all this mean for today's bakers and pastry chefs? Because there is a large consumer base for gluten-free goods made up of individuals facing limited choices, the market continues to expand in leaps and bounds. Sales increased from $210 million in 2001 to $700 million in 2006, following compound annual growth of 27%. Market research experts project this high rate of growth to continue through 2010 as more people are diagnosed as gluten-intolerant, allergic to wheat, or having celiac disease.

White bread made from Expandex.

In response to consumer demand, gluten-free baking has improved significantly over the past two decades. Today, there are more alternative flours on the market—such as sorghum, amaranth, sweet rice, soy, and potato—that provide improved taste and texture. Carol Fenster, a leading expert on the gluten-free lifestyle and the author of several baking cookbooks (read more about www.savorypalate.com), recommends experimenting with a combination of flours to achieve desired results since each of the different flours lends unique qualities to the finished product. Carol has come to depend on one main blend that she mixes up ahead of time to facilitate baking. Edible gums, like xanthan gum and guar gum, replace some of the elasticity lost in the exclusion of gluten. In particular, the recent introduction of Expandex has revolutionized the world of gluten-free baking for bakers and pastry chefs, as well as their customers. When used in place of a portion of the alternative flour blend, this modified tapioca starch yields baked goods with a lighter and softer interior texture, crisper crust, and a longer shelf life. Thanks to advances in gluten-free baking, individuals who once suffered through mediocre at best gluten-free treats can now enjoy breads and desserts with taste and texture on par with traditional wheat-based items.

GLUTEN-FREE BAKING TIPS

• Make-Your-Own Flour Blend
• Baking Tips and Guidelines

GLUTEN-FREE RECIPES BY CAROL FENSTER

• Basic Sorghum Flour Blend
• Chocolate Chip Cookies
• Basic Cake
• French Bread